Warm Oysters with Truffle Cream + Truffles

Emily Buchanan March 20, 2018

The sauce for these brilliant, briny oysters is the amazing and versatile. How could the combination of oyster liquor, cream, butter, and truffle juice be bad?
The silken texture of the warmed oyster creates a fine textural contrast to the crunch of the truffle matchsticks.

4 servings

Equipment

A fine-mesh sieve; a flat, ovenproof serving dish; small jar with a lid; a mandoline or a very sharp knife.

Ingredients

12 large fresh oysters
1 cup (280 g) coarse sea salt
1 fresh black truffle (about 1 ounce; 30 g), cleaned
1/4 cup (60 ml) Truffle Cream (page 189 of Simply Truffles)
About 1 tablespoon truffle juice
2 teaspoons (10 g) Truffle Butter (page 191 of Simply Truffles )
1/2 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice, or to taste

Method

1. Open the oysters, cut the muscle to extract it from the shell, and filter the oyster liquor through the fine-mesh sieve set over a small saucepan.

2. Cover the bottom of a heatproof serving dish (it should be large enough to hold the oysters in a single layer) with a thin layer of the coarse salt. Place the opened oysters in their shells on the bed of salt to keep them stable. Refrigerate. Within about 15 minutes, the oysters will give off a second, even more flavorful oyster liquor.

3. Meanwhile arrange a rack in the oven about 5 inches (12.5 cm) from the heat source. Preheat the broiler.

4. With a vegetable peeler, peel the truffle. Mince the truffle peelings, place in a small jar, and tighten the lid. Reserve the peelings for another use. With the mandoline or very sharp knife, cut the truffle into thick slices. Cut the slices into matchsticks.

5. In the saucepan containing the reserved oyster liquor, add the cream and truffle juice and bring to a simmer over low heat. Whisk the butter and the lemon juice into the sauce, whisking vigorously to give it volume. If the sauce appears too thick, thin it with additional truffle juice. Add half the truffle matchsticks and just warm them gently. Do not cook them.

6. Spoon the sauce over the oysters. Place the baking dish under the broiler just until the oysters are warmed through, no more than 20 to 25 seconds. The sea-fresh aroma of oysters should begin filling the air as the truffles warm up.

7. Cover 4 plates with the coarse salt to keep the oysters stable. Arrange 3 oysters on each plate. Garnish with the remaining truffle matchsticks. Serve.

Wine suggestion

With oysters, I always reach for a Picpoul de Pinet, a white that grows near the Mediterranean oyster beds, is made with 100 percent Picpoul grape, and has a distinct acidity and a pleasing, spicy finish. Another great choice is always a Sauvignon Blanc, either a Sancerre or Quincy.

Vietnamese Dipping Sauce

Emily Buchanan March 19, 2018

This classic sauce can be found in many variations, often served with Vietnamese spring rolls and bò bún (beef noodle salad). The balance of spice, salt and sugar lends itself to myriad uses – I like to use it as a pungent accompaniment to Sashimi Salmon or as the dipping sauce variation to my Asian Chicken and Cilantro Meatballs.

Makes 3/4 cup (185 ml)

Equipment

A mini food processor or a standard food processor fitted with a small bowl; a small jar with a lid.

Ingredients

2 plump, moist garlic cloves, peeled, halved, green germ removed
1 fresh or dried red bird’s eye chile
3 tablespoons Vietnamese fish sauce, preferably Red Boat brand
3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime or lemon juice
2 tablespoons sugar

Method

In the food processor mince the garlic and chile. Add the fish sauce, citrus juice, sugar, and 1/2 cup (125 ml) water. Pulse to blend and taste for seasoning. Transfer to the jar and tighten the lid.

Make ahead note

Store in the covered jar in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.

This recipe was first published in The French Kitchen Cookbook.
All rights reserved. Do not reproduce without permission.

Salmon Sashimi with an Avalanche of Herbs

Emily Buchanan March 19, 2018

This is one of the more versatile fish dishes I can imagine. Inspired by Vietnamese cooking, it is the sort of recipe that can link itself to almost any cuisine. All you need is an avalanche of herbs (preferably four or five for variety and pungency), and a sauce that packs a whollop (Vietnamese dipping sauce is ideal here). Though my first instinct is to make this with salmon, the possibilities are endless. Any ultra-fresh fish could be used here, including scallops, halibut or any other firm white fish fillets. I can go wild with herbs: the last time I made this I created a mix of tarragon, basil, mint, chives, and shiso as well as strips of dried seaweed, or nori. I would stay away from fresh herbs that can be overly pungent, such as sage or oregano.

4 servings

Equipment

4 salad plates, stored in the freezer for at least 1 hour

Ingredients

1 pound (500 g) ultra-fresh, sashimi-grade salmon
1 packed cup (15 g) mixed fresh herbs, such as basil, mint, shiso, and cilantro, rinsed and patted dry
1 to 2 tablespoons Vietnamese Dipping Sauce, plus extra for serving
Lime wedges, for serving

Method

1. Slice the salmon as thin as possible and arrange the slices on individual salad plates.

2. Finely mince the herbs and scatter evenly over the salmon. Sprinkle the lemongrass on top.

3. At serving time, sprinkle with the dipping sauce. Serve with the lime wedges and additional sauce alongside.

Wine suggestion

A floral white is ideal here. We often enjoy the sashimi with Olivier Leflaive’s 100% Chardonnay Bourgogne blanc, always a good-value white Burgundy.

The Secret

An avalanche of fresh herbs. You can never have too many or too many varieties.

Variation

Marinate the salmon in the dipping sauce for added punch and Asian flavor.

This recipe was first published in The French Kitchen Cookbook: Recipes and Lessons from Paris and Provence.

Miniature Goats Cheese + Onion Tarts

Emily Buchanan March 15, 2018

These tasty, savory, miniature pastries are a huge hit in my cooking classes. There is always a great sense of satisfaction, when one removes a tray of these fragrant, golden nuggets from the oven. These are best warm from the oven but are also delicious at room temperature. They can serve as appetizers or as sides to a simple green salad.

Makes 24 miniature tatins

Equipment

A 2 3/4–inch (7 cm) round biscuit cutter; 2 baking sheets lined with baking parchment; a food processor; 2 nonstick petit four molds or mini muffin tins, each with twelve 2 1/2–inch (6.5 cm) cups, or a 24-cup mini-muffin pan.

Ingredients

A 14-ounce (400 g) sheet of Blitz Puff Pastry (page 294 of The French Kitchen Cookbook) or purchased all-butter puff pastry, thawed (see Note)
4 tablespoons (60 g) unsalted butter
1 pound (500 g) onions, peeled, halved lengthwise, and cut into thin half moons
Fine sea salt Coarse, freshly ground black pepper
4 ounces (125 g) soft fresh goat’s milk cheese
Grated zest of 1 lemon, preferably organic
3 large eggs, preferably free range and organic lightly beaten
1 teaspoon fresh lemon thyme or regular thyme leaves
Fleur de sel, for garnish

Note

In our tests, we have preferred Dufour brand frozen puff pastry available at most specialty supermarkets . See www.dufourpastrykitchens.com. (Please note I have no affiliation with the brand.)

Be sure to leave ample time for thawing frozen dough, at least 6 hours on the refrigerator.

Method

1. Evenly center two racks in the oven. Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C).

2. With the biscuit cutter, cut out 24 rounds of pastry. (Note: you will get the most from the pastry if you begin on the outside and cut rings as tightly as possible from the outside. Then work from the next large ring inside. I usually get 31 rounds out of a sheet.) Arrange the rounds side by side on the baking sheets. Prick them with a fork and freeze for at least 10 minutes.

3. In a skillet, melt the butter over low heat. Add the onions and a pinch of salt, and sweat – cook, covered, over low heat until soft and translucent – about 10 minutes. Season with pepper.

4. In the food processor, combine the goat cheese, lemon zest, eggs, and thyme leaves and process to blend. Add the cheese mixture to the onions in the skillet and stir to blend. Taste for seasoning.

5. Spoon a tablespoon of the mixture into each mold or muffin cup. Cover each one with a round of pastry.

6. Place the molds in the oven and bake until the pastry is puffed and golden, 20 to 25 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool slightly. Then remove them from the cups and turn them over, pastry side down. Serve warm or at room temperature, garnished with the remaining thyme leaves and fleur de sel.

Wine suggestion

The mineral-rich flavors of this blend of Marsanne, Clairette, Ugni Blanc and Bourboulenc with their touch of spice make this white wine –Domaine du Paternel Cassis Blanc de Bancs -- a perfect palate opener to pair with the tatins.

The secret

Make sure that you cut the pastry slightly larger than the diameter if the molds, since the pastry may shrink during baking.

Variations

Replace the goat cheese with grated cheddar and bits of bacon; with feta cheese; crabmeat and tarragon; or peas, scallions, and pancetta. Add herbs, bake as simple, lighter, “quiche-like” bites, without the pastry.

This recipe was first published in The French Kitchen Cookbook: Recipes and Lessons from Paris and Provence.

Walnut Bites: Italian Panpepato

Emily Buchanan March 15, 2018

These crunchy walnut bites are rather irresistible. And versatile. A darker version of the Italian panforte, they offer a pungent, forward flavor, laced with freshly ground black pepper, cinnamon, cocoa powder, candied lemon peel, raisins, and walnut halves. They are ideal to serve with a cheese course (a nicely aged Parmiggiano-Reggiano and a sip of vin santo works for me), or team them up with a slice of the cheese, stack the two on a toothpick, and serve as an appetizer.

Makes 32 bites

Equipment

A 9 1/2 x 9 1/2-inch (24 cm) square baking pan; baking parchment

Ingredients

1/2 cup (65 g) dried black currants or raisins
1/2 cup (125 ml) sweet wine, such as marsala, vin santo, or port
2 tablespoons (30 g) unsalted butter
3/4 cup (150 g) unrefined cane sugar, preferably organic, vanilla scented
1/4 cup (60 ml) intensely-flavored honey, such as chestnut
1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
2 cups (250 g) walnut halves
3 dried figs, stems removed, chopped
1 cup (90 g) candied lemon peel, preferably organic, cut into fine cubes
1/4 cup (40 g) unbleached, all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon coarse, freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon unsweetened cocoa powder
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon, preferably Vietnamese cassia

Method

1. In a small bowl, soak the currants or raisins in 1/4 cup (60 ml) of the wine for 1 hour.

2. Line the baking pan with baking parchment, letting the parchment hang over the ends. (This will make it easier to remove the panpepato once it’s baked.)

3.Center a rack in the oven. Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C).

4. In a small saucepan, melt the butter over low heat. Add the sugar, honey, and salt, heating just until blended.

5. In a large bowl, combine the currants and their soaking liquid, the walnuts, figs, and candied peel, and stir to coat the walnuts. In another bowl, combine the flour, pepper, cocoa powder, and cinnamon, and stir to blend. Add the flour mixture to the currant mixture, along with the remaining 1/4 cup (60 ml) wine. Stir to evenly coat the walnuts. Add the butter mixture and stir again to blend evenly. The mixture will be very dense and sticky. Spoon the mixture into the parchment-lined pan and smooth it out with a spatula. (Note that the mixture will be a walnut brown as it is placed in the oven, and turns dark, almost black as it bakes.)

6.Place the pan in the oven and bake until bubbly, dark, and fragrant, about 35 minutes. The mixture will be sticky, but will firm up as it cools in the pan.

7. Once it has cooled, cut the panpepato into very tiny bites. (Store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 weeks.)

Wine suggestion

As an appetizer, I love these with a glass of Champagne. With the cheese course, try an Italian vin santo, a Sicilian Marsala, a Porto, or a French vin doux naturel, such as the Grenache-based Rasteau from the southern Rhône.

This recipe was first published in The French Kitchen Cookbook: Recipes and Lessons from Paris and Provence.

Please do not reproduce without permission.

Mini Croque Monsieur

Emily Buchanan March 15, 2018

Is there a better palate opener than a single bite of a grilled ham and cheese sandwich, brightened by the tart crunch of a cornichon? Assemble all the ingredients for these baby croque monsieur sandwiches earlier in the day and then prepare them at the last minute, when guests and family are gathering.

Makes 18 squares, to serve 6 to 8

Equipment

A toaster; a nonstick skillet; toothpicks.

Ingredients

4 slices Saffron Honey Brioche or white bread (pain de mie), crusts removed
2 teaspoons French mustard
2 thin slices best-quality cooked ham, cut to fit 2 slices of the bread
About 1/4 cup (30 g) freshly grated Swiss Gruyère cheese or other hard cheese
1 tablespoon (15 g) clarified butter, ghee or unsalted butter
9 cornichons, halved lengthwise

Method

1. Toast the brioche or bread. Coat one side of each slice with the mustard. Place a slice of ham over the mustard on two sides of the slices. Sprinkle the cheese over the ham. Place the other slices of bread, mustard-coated side down, on top of the cheese.

2. In the skillet, melt the butter over low heat. Brown the bread evenly on both sides, about 1 minute per side. Cut each sandwich into 9 even squares. Pierce each cornichon half with a toothpick and secure the toothpick to the grilled bread. Arrange on a serving platter and serve warm, offering guests cocktail napkins.

Wine suggestion

Grilled cheese and champagne? Why not? I love Pierre Moncuit’s blanc de blancs, a medium-bodied, clean, and always reliable offering that has a purity that matches just about any opening taste.

This recipe was first published in The French Kitchen Cookbook. Buy the book here.

Cold Fry Frites

Emily Buchanan March 14, 2018

Traditional fries are prepared by tossing potatoes in hot oil, usually cooking them twice: first, poaching them once in a not-too-hot oil and then, finishing them off in hotter oil. Not simple. In this method, the potatoes and oil begin cooking together from cold, totally defying all the rules of deep frying. The potatoes cook in a large pot, eventually reaching high heat, emerging golden and greaseless in less than 30 minutes. One pot, one cooking session, no blanching, no double frying, no electric deep-fat fryer, no thermometer. All you need is a good, large, heavy-duty cast iron or stainless pot.

6 servings

Equipment

A French-fry cutter (optional); 2 thick, clean kitchen towels; a 4 to 9-quart (4 to 9 l) heavy-duty saucepan or cast-iron pot; a kitchen timer; a wire skimmer or slotted metal spoon; two trays lined with paper towels; a warmed platter.

Ingredients

2 pounds (1 kg, about 4 large) russet potatoes (see Note)
2-1/2 quarts (2.5 l) vegetable oil, such as sunflower, at room temperature
Fine sea salt

Note

Use firm, fresh potatoes. Rinse and soak them well to rid them of starch. The less starch in the potatoes, the crispier the fries will be.

Method

1. Rinse the potatoes, peel them, rinse again, and cut lengthwise into 3/8-inch (10 mm) fries. (Precision is not essential here: I love the tiny, crunchy, almost-burnt bits that emerge from the fryer.)

2. Soak the potatoes in a bowl of cold water for about 5 minutes, changing the water when it becomes cloudy (at least twice), until the water remains clear. (Soaking releases the starch in potatoes, making them less rigid and less likely to stick together while cooking.)

3. Drain the potatoes and wrap them in the kitchen towels to dry. Removing the excess liquid will speed up the cooking time and reduce the likelihood of the potatoes spattering once the oil is hot.

4. Transfer the potatoes to the saucepan and set it over the stove. Pour the oil over the potatoes. Do not cover the pot. Set the heat to high, stirring the potatoes gently with a metal spoon to distribute and prevent sticking. (A metal spoon lets you feel if any potato bits are stuck to the bottom of the pan and scrape them up.)

5. The oil should move from a peppy simmer to a boil in about 9 minutes. When the oil starts to boil, set a timer for 17 minutes. Stir the potatoes very gently every 3 to 4 minutes to prevent sticking and ensure even cooking. Don’t worry about over boiling – the oil should boil rapidly and evenly with no need to adjust the heat throughout the entire process.

6. When the timer rings, the potatoes should have begun to take on color, turning from white to slightly golden, but will still have about 4 more minutes remaining until they are fully cooked (this time may vary depending on the type of potatoes and pot you use, how dry the potatoes are and the type of source heat etc. While in some kitchens they have taken about 21 minutes after coming to the boil, other tests have taken up to 40 minutes so pay close attention to visual cues). For the last few minutes watch the fries closely, stirring gently. Once they are a deep golden brown, taste one to make sure they are truly crisp and firm on the outside with a creamy interior. It should not be the least bit soggy, so resist the urge to remove them from the oil too soon. When you are happy with the consistency, carefully transfer the rest of the fries with the wire skimmer or a metal slotted spoon to the paper towel-lined tray to drain. Season with salt and serve immediately on a warmed platter.

This recipe was first published in My Master Recipes.
All rights reserved. Please do not reproduce without permission.

Intense Chocolate Custards with Nibs

Emily Buchanan March 14, 2018

No matter the season or the setting, this thoroughly satisfying dessert hits the spot. The serving size is intentionally small – all the better to savor the intense hit of chocolate. I like to serve this with chocolate sorbet alongside, also embellished with a touch of crunchy chocolate nibs.

8 servings

Equipment

A double boiler; a baster; eight 1/4-cup (65 ml) vodka or shot glasses.

Ingredients

5 ounces (150 g) bittersweet chocolate, such as Valrhona Guanaja 70%
3/4 cup (185 ml) light cream or half-and-half
2 tablespoons (30 g) unsalted butter
Fleur de sel
About 1 tablespoon chocolate nibs (see Note)

Note

What are nibs? Cacao nibs are pieces of cacao beans that have been roasted and hulled. Nibs taste faintly similar to roasted coffee beans. They have a great crunch, a slightly nutty flavor, and a pleasant touch of bitterness.

Method

1. Break the chocolate into small pieces.

2. In the top of the double boiler set over, but not touching, boiling water, heat the cream and 1/4 cup (60 ml) of water just until warm. Add the chocolate pieces, stirring until the chocolate is melted. Add the butter and stir to melt and combine. Spoon the mixture into the glasses. (I have found that if you use a baster to “pipe” the chocolate into the glasses, it is less messy.) Refrigerate until firm, about 20 minutes.

3. At serving time sprinkle, with fleur de sel and chocolate nibs.

Make ahead note

The custards can be prepared up to 3 days in advance, covered and refrigerated.

Wine Suggestion

I love to serve this treat with the chocolate-friendly, sweet Banyuls reserve wine from Domaine La Tour Vieille in the Languedoc. With its touch of spice, hint of chocolate and overtones of raspberry, what could be a finer partner for a chocolate dessert?

This recipe was first published in The French Kitchen Cookbook: Recipes and Lessons from Paris and Provence.

Red Ruby Bars

Emily Buchanan March 14, 2018

Rhubarb – still known as “pie plant” – always reminds me of my childhood, because wherever we lived my mother was sure to plant rhubarb in the vegetable garden, ensuring a steady supply of this tangy vegetable for pies as well as sauces for spooning over vanilla ice cream. But rhubarb can be visually problematic, often losing its gorgeous rub red color as it cooks. I think that I have found a solution: in these delectable bars the rhubarb is not precooked – it is cut into extra-thin slices so it cooks quickly as the bars bake, retaining its bright red color.

Makes 16 squares

Equipment

A 9 1/2 x 9 1/2-inch (24 cm) square baking pan; baking parchment; a food processor.

Ingredients

Pastry

4 tablespoons (60 g) salted butter, chilled
1 cup (140 g) unbleached, all-purpose flour
1/3 cup (65 g) confectioners’ sugar
Grated zest of 1 lemon, preferably organic
1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
2 tablespoons plain nonfat yogurt

Topping

3/4 cup (150 g) unrefined cane sugar, preferably organic, vanilla scented
1/4 cup (40 g) unbleached, all-purpose flour
4 large egg whites, preferably organic and free range
3 cups (300 g) thinly sliced rhubarb stalks (about seven 10-inch; 26 cm)

Method

1. Center a rack in the oven. Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C).

2. Line the baking pan with two pieces of baking parchment, letting the parchment hang over the sides. (This will make it easier to remove the dessert once baked.)

3. Prepare the pastry: In the food processor, combine all the pastry ingredients and process to blend. The mixture should be soft and pliable.

4. Press the dough evenly into the bottom of the baking pan. Place the pan in the oven and bake until firm, about 12 minutes.

5. While the pastry is baking, prepare the topping: In a bowl, combine the sugar, flour, and egg whites and whisk to blend. Add the rhubarb and stir to coat it evenly with the egg-white mixture.

6. Remove the pan from the oven and spoon the rhubarb topping over the warm pastry. Return the baking pan to the oven and bake until the topping is firm and golden, 35 to 40 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool. Remove from the pan and cut into 16 squares. Serve at room temperature. (Store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 days.)

This recipe was first published in The French Kitchen Cookbook: Recipes and Lessons from Paris and Provence.

Chocolate Satin

Emily Buchanan March 7, 2018

I have to confess that I have been known to obsess over a recipe. And this one became a big-time obsession. I tinkered with this over an entire summer, working to find just the right proportion of whipped egg white, cream, and the best kind of chocolate to use, to create a dessert that is at once creamy, fragrant, full-flavored and, well, unforgettable. And of course it can also be made in the spring, fall, and winter! This dessert differs from a classic chocolate mousse in which would contain egg yolks as well as whites. The proof is in the pudding, as they say, and I have literally seen guests scraping the serving bowl clean. I consider this success!

8 to 12 servings

Equipment

A sifter; a 6-quart (6 l) metal bowl; a heavy-duty mixer fitted with a whisk; a 1 1/2-quart (1.5 l) saucepan; an attractive 2-quart (2 l) serving bowl.

INGREDIENTS

10 ounces (300 g) 70% bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped (see Notes)
1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
1 teaspoon Homemade Vanilla Extract (recipe on page 439 of My Master Recipes or pure vanilla extract
2 cups (500 ml) heavy cream
3 large egg whites, free-range and organic, at room temperature (see Notes)
1 cup (120 g) confectioners’ sugar, sifted

Note

In our tests, we found best results with Lindt Excellence 70%, a chocolate, which is readily available at supermarkets. Be cautious about using just any chocolate; in chocolate with less than 70% cacao the final result will not always be firm enough.

METHOD

1. Place the chocolate in the metal bowl. Sprinkle with the salt and vanilla extract.

2. In the saucepan, bring the cream just to a simmer over moderate heat. Pour the hot cream into the bowl with the chocolate, and, working rapidly, mix with a wooden spoon to melt the chocolate until you have a smooth and glossy texture, about 2 minutes. Let cool.

3. In the bowl of the mixer, whisk the egg whites at highest speed until frothy, about 10 seconds. Continue whisking until soft peaks form, about 1 minute more. Add the sugar 1 tablespoon at a time, and whisk at highest speed until satiny and stiff peaks form, about 2 minutes more. The mixture should be airy, glossy, and stiff like a meringue.

4. Add about one-quarter of the egg white mixture to the cooled chocolate mixture to lighten it. Whisk gently until no streaks of white remain. Spoon the rest of the egg white mixture on top of the mixture in the bowl. Fold in the whipped egg white by hand: Using the edge of the spatula or a large metal spoon, cut through the two mixtures until you reach the bottom, then draw the spoon along the bottom of the bowl. Turn your wrist to bring the spoon up the side of the bowl, lightly bringing the chocolate mixture from the bottom to the top. As you do so, turn the bowl about 45 degrees, lightly overturning the spoon to fold the chocolate on top of the egg whites. Turning the bowl as you fold will incorporate the mixtures more efficiently. Continue cutting into the mixture and folding until just incorporated.

5. Pour the mixture into the serving bowl and cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate until firm, at least 6 hours or up to 1 week. The dessert will be firmer than a mousse but not as firm as a cake or brownie. Scoop into ice cream bowls with an ice-cream scoop or large, rounded spoon. Serve chilled.

NOTE

Raw eggs are used in this preparation. Consuming raw eggs may increase the risk of foodborne illness. Raw eggs should be avoided by the very young and the very old, pregnant women, and anyone with a compromised immune system.

VARIATION

Mix about 1/2 cup (60 g) of chocolate cacao nibs into the chocolate mixture before folding, and/or sprinkle the top of the satin with cacao nibs at serving time.

MAKE AHEAD NOTE

This dessert can be prepared up to 1 week in advance, covered with plastic wrap and refrigerated.

Fig + Almond Tart

Emily Buchanan March 6, 2018

We have multiple varieties of fig trees on our property in Provence, and from June to October they offer an abundance of sweet fruits, some vibrant green, some green tinged with purple, and some almost black. My favorite variety is the small and delightfully sweet Ronde de Bordeaux, an ideal fig for tarts and jams.

8 servings

Equipment

A 10-inch (25 cm) tart pan with a removable bottom; a rolling pin; a baking sheet lined with baking parchment; a blender or a food processor.

Ingredients

A 14-ounce (400 g) sheet of Blitz Puff Pastry (page 294 or The French Kitchen Cookbook) or purchased all-butter puff pastry, thawed (see Notes)
1 cup (80 g) almond meal (see Note)
5 tablespoons (75 g) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1/3 cup (65 g) unrefined cane sugar, preferably organic, vanilla scented
2 tablespoons (20 g) unbleached, all-purpose flour
1 egg yolk, preferably organic and free-range
1 tablespoon fig jam 1 3/4 pounds (875 g; 35 to 40) small purple figs, stems trimmed Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting
Roasted Fig Sorbet (page 272 of The French Kitchen Cookbook), for serving

Notes

In our tests, we have preferred Dufour brand frozen puff pastry, available at most specialty supermarkets. See www.dufourpastrykitchens.com. Be sure to leave ample time for thawing frozen dough, at least 6 hours in the refrigerator.

Almond meal (sometimes called almond flour) is made from whole, unblanched (skin-on) almonds. For this recipe, whole, unblanched almonds can be finely ground in a food processor. Do not over-process or you may end up with almond butter.

METHOD

1. Fold the pastry in half, transfer it to the tart pan and unfold it. Without stretching the dough, lift it up at the edges so that it naturally falls against the rim of the pan. With your fingertips, very delicately coax the dough onto the rim. There should be a generous overhang. With the rolling pin, roll over the top of the tin, trimming off the overhanging pastry to create a smooth, well-trimmed shell.

2. Center a rack in the oven. Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Place the tart shell on the baking sheet.

3. In the food processor, combine the almond meal, butter, sugar, flour, egg yolk, and fig jam and process to blend. Transfer the almond mixture to the pastry shell. Smooth out the top with a spatula. Place in the oven and bake just until the pastry firms up and begins to brown, and the almond mixture browns, about 10 minutes. Remove from the oven.

4. Cut an X in the top of each fig and gently squeeze from the bottom to open the fruit like a flower. Arrange the figs, cut side up, side by side on top of the almond mixture.

5. Return the tart pan to the oven and bake until the figs and the filling are dark and bubbly, 20 to 25 minutes. Remove from the oven and transfer to a rack to cool. While the tart is still warm, sprinkle with confectioners’ sugar. After about 10 minutes, carefully remove the tart from the sides of the pan, leaving it on the pan base. Serve warm or at room temperature, cut into wedges, with Roasted Fig Sorbet. This tart is best served the day it is baked.

The secret: Ripe, but not overly ripe figs, which tend to give up too much liquid and turn the pastry soggy. Tip: Figs freeze beautifully. Treat them as you would berries: Arrange the whole fruit stem side up, side by side on a baking sheet, and place in the freezer. Once frozen, transfer to a zippered plastic bag and freeze for up to 3 months. For use, thaw at room temperature.

This recipe was first published in The French Kitchen Cookbook: Recipes and Lessons from Paris and Provence.

Honey + Saffron Brioche

Emily Buchanan March 6, 2018

I have rarely seen students so enthused and bursting with pride as their airy brioche puffs to grandeur in the oven, arriving shiny and golden to the table just moments later. There is great triumph in baking perfection, and after a class, e-mails, photos, tweets and Facebook notations attest to the students prowess in the kitchen. In my kitchen, I use honey rather than sugar as a sweetener. The reasons are simple, honey just makes food taste better and for us it’s a homegrown product, produced from our bees that call Chanteduc and Provence home. When preparing this brioche, don’t omit the saffron: Infusing it in the warm milk dramatizes the intensity of these golden threads and adds an exotic flavor and aroma to the final product, not to mention the touch of color.

Note that you’ll need to start the brioche several hours before you plan to bake it.

Makes 2 loaves, about 16 slices each

Equipment

A heavy-duty mixer fitted with a flat paddle; a dough scraper; two nonstick 1-quart (1 l) rectangular bread pans.

INGREDIENTS

sponge

1/3 cup (80 ml) whole milk, lukewarm
A generous pinch of best-quality saffron threads (about 1 heaping teaspoon, 30-40 filaments, or 0.3 gram)
1 package (2 1/4 teaspoons; 9 g) active dry yeast
1 tablespoon honey
1 large ultra-fresh egg, preferably free-range and organic, lightly beaten
2 cups (280 g) unbleached, all-purpose flour

Dough

1/3 cup (80 ml) lavender honey, or other mild, fragrant honey
1 teaspoon fine sea salt 4 large, ultra-fresh eggs, preferably free-range and organic, lightly beaten
1 1/2 cups (210 g) unbleached, all purpose-flour
12 tablespoons (6 ounces; 180 g) unsalted butter, at room temperature

Egg wash

1 large, ultra-fresh egg, preferably organic and free-range, lightly beaten

Note:

A reliable saffron source is The Spice House www.thespicehouse.com

METHOD

1. Prepare the sponge: In the bowl of the heavy-duty mixer fitted with the paddle, combine the milk, saffron, yeast, and honey and stir to blend. Let stand until foamy, about 5 minutes. Add the egg and 1 cup (140 g) of the flour and and stir to blend. The sponge will be soft and sticky. Sprinkle with the remaining 1 cup (140 g) flour, covering the sponge. Set aside to rest, uncovered, for 30 minutes. The sponge should erupt slightly, cracking the layer of flour.

2. Prepare the dough: Add the honey, salt, eggs and the 1 1/2 cups (210 g) of the flour to the sponge. With the paddle attached, mix on low speed just until the ingredients come together, about 1 minute. Increase the mixer speed to medium and beat for 5 minutes.

3. To incorporate the butter into the dough, it should be the same consistency as the dough. To prepare the butter, place it on a flat work surface, and with the dough scraper, smear it bit by bit across the surface. When it is ready, the butter should be smooth, soft, and still cool – not warm, oily, or greasy.

4. With the mixer on medium-low speed, add the butter a few tablespoons at a time. When all of the butter has been added, increase the mixer speed to medium-high for 1 minute. Then reduce the speed to medium and beat the dough for 5 minutes. The dough will be soft and sticky.

5. First rise: Cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap. Let the dough rise at room temperature until doubled in bulk, about 2 hours.

6. Chilling and second rise: Punch down the dough. Cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate the dough overnight, or for at least 4 hours, during which time it will continue to rise and may double in size again.

7. After the second rise, the dough is ready to use.

8. To bake the brioche: Divide the dough into 12 equal pieces, each weighing about 2 1/2 ounces (75 g). Roll each piece of dough tightly into a ball and place 6 pieces side by side in each bread pan. Cover the pans with a clean cloth and let the dough rise at room temperature until doubled in bulk, 1 to 1 1/2 hours.

9. Center a rack in the oven. Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C).

10.Lightly brush the dough with the beaten egg. Working quickly, use the tip of a pair of sharp scissors to snip several crosses along the top of each pan of dough. (This will help the brioche rise evenly as it bakes). Place the pans in the oven and bake until the brioche loaves are puffed and deeply golden, 30 to 35 minutes. Remove the pans from the oven and place on a rack to cool. Turn the loaves out once they have cooled.

The secret

Top-quality honey makes all the difference here. Honey not only enriches the flavor of this brioche, but also helps keep it moist.

Note

The brioche is best eaten the day it is baked. It can be stored for a day or two, tightly wrapped. To freeze, wrap it tightly and store for up to 1 month. Thaw, still wrapped, at room temperature.

This recipe was first published in The French Kitchen Cookbook: Recipes and Lessons from Paris and Provence.

Ginger Almond Bars

Emily Buchanan March 6, 2018

This is a gluten-free version of my classic Chestnut Honey Squares that I have been making for years, always to rave reviews from my students and friends.

Here, fresh ginger and candied ginger team up to make an uplifting, zesty treat that can be prepared in any season. This quick yet impressive dessert lends itself to endless reincarnations, using various dried fruits and citrus zests, even a cocoa version for chocolate lovers!

Makes 16 bars

Equipment

A 9 1/2 x 9 1/2-inch ( 24 cm) square baking pan; baking parchment; a 2-quart (2 l) saucepan; a baking rack.

Ingredients

Base

3 tablespoons (45 g) unsalted butter
1-3/4 cups (165 g) almond meal (also called almond flour or almond powder)
2 tablespoons peeled and grated fresh ginger
3 tablespoons mild honey, such as clover
1 large egg, free range and organic, lightly beaten
1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

Topping

4 tablespoons (60 g) unsalted butter
1 cup (80 g) sliced almonds
1/3 cup (45 g) minced candied ginger
1/3 cup (80 ml) mild honey, such as clover
1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

Fresh Thyme Sorbet (page 92 of My Master Recipes) or Rosemary Sorbet (page 491 of My Master Recipes), for serving (optional)

Method

1. Center a rack in the oven. Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Line the pan with baking parchment, letting the parchment hang over the sides. (This will make it easier to remove the dessert once baked.)

2. Prepare the base: In the saucepan, melt the butter. Add the almond meal, fresh ginger, honey, egg, salt, and vanilla extract. Stir until well combined. The mixture should be thick and sticky.

3. Turn the mixture out into the prepared pan. To help make a level and even pastry, place a piece of plastic wrap on top of the pastry. Using a flat-bottomed glass (or your fingers), smooth out the base by pressing gently to evenly cover the bottom of the pan. Remove and discard the plastic wrap. Bake until the pastry is slightly firm, 12 to 15 minutes.

4. Meanwhile, prepare the topping: In the same saucepan, melt the butter over low heat. Add the almonds, candied ginger, honey, salt, and vanilla. Stir just until the ingredients are incorporated.

5. Once the base is baked, spread the topping evenly over the base and bake until the topping is a dark and sizzling, 12 to 15 minutes. Do not underbake.

6. Transfer the pan to a rack to cool in the pan. When the dessert is completely cool, remove it from the pan using the overhanging parchment as handles and cut it into 16 even squares. Serve with fresh thyme or rosemary sorbet.

Make ahead note

Store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 week.

Chestnut Honey Squares

Emily Buchanan March 6, 2018

These rich honey squares satisfy with just a single bite. And they are so pretty once they come from the oven, that you will proudly announce “I made these!”

Makes 32 squares

Equipment

A 9 1/2 x 9 1/2-inch ( 24 x 24 cm) baking pan; baking parchment; a food processor.

Ingredients

pastry

3/4 cup (120 g) unbleached, all-purpose flour
1/2 cup (45 g) almond meal (see Note)
3 tablespoons (35 g), unrefined caned sugar, preferably organic, vanilla s cented
1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
6 tablespoons (90 g) unsalted butter, chilled, cut into cubes
1 large egg yolk, free-range and organic
1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

Topping

4 tablespoons (60 g) unsalted butter
1 cup (80 g) sliced almonds
1/3 cup (30 g) candied orange or lemon peel, cut into tiny cubes
1/3 cup (65 g) unrefined cane sugar, preferably organic
2 tablespoons intensely-flavored honey, such as chestnut
1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

Note

Method

1. Center a rack in the oven. Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C).

2. Line the baking pan with baking parchment, letting the parchment hang over the sides. (This will make it easier to remove the dessert once baked.)

3. Prepare the pastry: In the food processor, combine the flour, almond meal, sugar, and salt. Pulse to blend. Add the butter and pulse until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs. Add the egg yolk, vanilla, and 1 tablespoon of water. Pulse to incorporate. Add 2 to 3 tablespoons of water, tablespoon by tablespoon, through the feed tube, pulsing until just before the pastry forms a ball. You may not need all the water.

4. Turn the dough out into the prepared baking pan. Press the dough evenly into the bottom of the pan. Place in the oven and bake until the pastry begins to brown around the edges, 12 to 15 minutes.

5. While the pastry is baking, prepare the topping: In a saucepan, melt the butter over low heat. If using a vanilla bean, use a small spoon to scrape out the seeds. Add the seeds to the melted butter. Dry the vanilla bean at room temperature, then place in a jar with sugar to make vanilla sugar. Seal the jar. Add the almonds, candied peel, sugar, honey, and, if using, the vanilla extract. Heat just until the ingredients are incorporated.

6. Remove the pan from the oven and spread the almond-honey mixture evenly over the pastry. Return the pan to the oven and bake until the topping is a deep gold, 12 to 15 minutes.

7. Remove from the oven. Transfer to a rack to cool in the pan. Once it has cooled remove from the pan and cut into 32 squares. (Store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 days).

Variation

Substitute dried black currants for the candied citrus.

This recipe was first published in The French Kitchen Cookbook: Recipes and Lessons from Paris and Provence.

Tomato Tatins

Emily Buchanan February 28, 2018

My good friend Jeffrey Bergman kindly shared this recipe with me one sunny August in Provence. We worked and worked on it (shucks had to eat it SO many times!) until we came up with this version, which we love. It is so fragrant and beautiful, and one of those did I really make these beauties?.

8 servings

Equipment

Three baking sheets; eight 1/2 cup (125 ml) ramekins; a 3 1/2-inch (8.75 cm) pastry cutter.

INGREDIENTS

Tomatoes

3 pounds (1.5 kg) small, firm, garden-fresh red heirloom tomatoes (about 15)
Fine sea salt Extra-virgin olive oil spray Pastry
A 14-ounce (400 g) sheet of my Blitz Puff Pastry recipe, well chilled, or purchased all-butter puff pastry, thawed (see Note)

Shallots

4 large shallots peeled, halved lengthwise, and cut into thin half-moons
2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon ground Espelette pepper or other mild ground chile pepper
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

caramel

1/2 cup (100 g) white, refined sugar (do not use dark, unrefined cane sugar)
4 teaspoons water
1/8 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

16 fresh basil leaves, plus more leaves for garnish
1/4 cup (25 g) freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

note

METHOD

1. Roast the tomatoes: Center a rack in the oven. Preheat the oven to 275°F (135°C).

2. Core the tomatoes and halve them crosswise (at the equator.) Arrange the tomatoes, cut side up, side by side, on the baking sheet. Sprinkle lightly with salt. Spray lightly with oil. Place the baking sheet in the oven and bake until the tomatoes have shrunk by about one-third, 1 1/2 to 2 hours. This is an important step to condense tomato flavor and reduce moisture. (The tomatoes can be baked up to 1 day in advance, stored in an airtight container, and refrigerated.)

3. Prepare the pastry: With the pastry cutter, cut out 8 rounds of pastry. Arrange the rounds side by side on a baking sheet. With a fork, prick the pastry. (The pastry rounds can be prepared up to 8 hours in advance. Cover and refrigerate.)

4. Prepare the shallot mixture: In a small saucepan, combine the shallots, oil, and 1/2 teaspoon of salt. Stir to coat the shallots with the oil. Sweat – cook, covered, over low heat, stirring frequently, until the shallots are soft and translucent – about 5 minutes. Add the Espelette pepper and the vinegar. Increase the heat to medium high and cook until the vinegar has evaporated, but the mixture remains moist. Taste for seasoning. (The shallots can be prepared up to 1 day in advance, stored in an airtight container and refrigerated.)

5. Prepare the caramel: In a medium saucepan, combine the sugar, water, and lemon juice and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to medium and cook undisturbed until sugar begins to caramelize, about 1 minute. Pay close attention as the caramel will deepen in color quickly at this stage. Swirl the pan gently and cook until the caramel is a deep amber, about 1 minute more. Spoon a generous tablespoon of the caramel into the ramekins and tilt the ramekins so that the caramel evenly coats the bottom. (This can be done up to 8 hours in advance. Store at room temperature.)

6. Bake the tatins: About 30 minutes before baking the tatins, center a rack in the oven. Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C).

7. Arrange the caramel-coated ramekins side by side on a baking sheet. Place 2 or 3 tomato halves, cut side up, into each ramekin. Press down on the tomatoes so that they fit snugly into the ramekins. Spoon the shallot mixture on top of the tomatoes. Place 2 basil leaves on top of the shallots. Sprinkle with the cheese.

8. Place a round of chilled pastry on top of each ramekin and tuck the dough around the tomatoes. Place the baking sheet in the oven and bake until the pastry is puffed and golden and the tomatoes are bubbling around the edges, 25 to 35 minutes. Remove the baking sheet from the oven and transfer the ramekins to a rack to cool for at least 2 minutes.

9. Carefully invert each tatin onto an individual salad plate. Serve slightly warm or at room temperature, garnished with basil leaves. (The tatins can be prepared up to 8 hours in advance, stored at room temperature.)

The Secret

This dish offers a beautiful balance of sweet and acid. The shallots and vinegar, as well as the touch of caramel, are essential to creating a dish full of contrasting flavors.

Jerusalem Artichoke Soup

Emily Buchanan February 28, 2018

How can this gnarled and knobby vegetable offer such elegance? This soup deserves a pedestal, as the creamy alabaster liquid flecked with bits of brown, elicits looks of surprise from guests followed by sounds of happy pleasures.

8 servings

Equipment

A blender or a food processor; 8 warmed, shallow soup bowls.

INGREDIENTS

2 quarts (2 l) whole milk
2 teaspoons fine sea salt
2 pounds (1 kg) Jerusalem artichokes (sunchokes), scrubbed but not peeled
1/4 cup (30 g) salted pistachios, toasted (optional)
Best-quality pistacho oil, such as Leblanc brand, for garnish (optional)

METHOD

1. Rinse a large saucepan with water, leaving a bit of water in the pan (this will prevent the milk from scorching and sticking to the pan.) Pour the milk into the pan and add the salt.

2. Trim the Jerusalem artichokes, and chop them coarsely, dropping them into the milk as you work (this will prevent the vegetable from turning brown as it is exposed to the air). When all the Jerusalem artichokes are prepared, place the pan over medium heat and cook gently until they are soft, 35 to 40 minutes. Watch carefully so the milk does not boil over. The milk may curdle, but that will not alter the texture or flavor of the final soup.

3. Transfer the mixture, in small batches, to the blender or food processor. Do not place the plunger in the feed tube of the food processor or in the lid of blender, or the heat will create a vacuum and the liquid will splatter. Puree until the mixture is perfectly smooth and silken, 1 to 2 minutes.

4. Return the soup to the saucepan and reheat gently. Taste for seasoning. Transfer it to the warmed, shallow soup bowls, garnished, if desired, with pistachios and pistachio oil and serve.

Red Tomato Gazpacho

Emily Buchanan February 26, 2018

A cool gazpacho summer soup is the perfect example of a quick and easy emulsion, as the blender and golden olive oil work their magic to transform a handful of ingredients into a velvety chilled delight.

8 servings

Equipment

A blender, food processor or immersion blender 8 chilled, shallow soup bowls or glasses.

INGREDIENTS

2 pounds (1 kg) ripe red tomatoes, rinsed, cored, cut into chunks
1 small cucumber (about 6 ounces; 180 g) peeled, cut into chunks
1 small mildly hot pepper such as Anaheim, stemmed, cut into chunks
1 small red onion, peeled, cut into chunks
2 plump, fresh garlic cloves, peeled, halved, green germ removed if present
2 teaspoons best-quality red wine or sherry wine vinegar
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
1/2 cup (125 ml) mild extra-virgin olive oil

METHOD

1. In the blender, combine the tomatoes, cucumber, pepper, onion, and garlic. Blend at highest speed until well emulsified and very smooth, a full 2 minutes. With the motor running, add the vinegar and salt. Slowly drizzle in the olive oil, until the mixture is smooth, thick and emulsified.

2. Cover and refrigerate until well chilled. Pour into chilled bowls or glasses to serve.

MAKE AHEAD NOTE: The soup can be prepared up to 3 days in advance and stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator. Re-blend at serving time.

Yveline's Chilled Cucumber Soup

Emily Buchanan February 9, 2018

Yveline is our good friend and neighbor in Provence, and she is always coming up with simple local recipes that we love. This is one of her summertime creations: We sometimes add a dollop of avocado sorbet, a fine act of gilding the lily.

8 servings

EQUIPMENT

A blender or a food processor.

INGREDIENTS

1 large European cucumber (about 1 pound; 500 g, peeled and chopped

2 large ripe avocados, halved, pitted, peeled, and cubed

2 cups (500 ml) Homemade Chicken or Vegetable Stock (page 000)

1 cup (45 g) cilantro leaves

1 teaspoon fine sea salt

Grated zest and juice of 1 lime, preferably organic

Avocado Sorbet, optional

METHOD

1. In the blender or food processor combine the cucumber, half of the cubed avocado, the chicken stock, half of the cilantro, and salt, and process to blend. Taste for seasoning. Chill for at least 1 hour and up to 24 hours.

2. At serving time, garnish with the remaining cilantro, the rest of the avocado, the lime juice and zest. If using, place a scoop of avocado sorbet in the center of the bowl.

Magic Mushroom Soup

Emily Buchanan February 9, 2018

I call this crowd-pleasing soup my magic recipe. It is so amazing that so few ingredients – and a soup made in a matter of minutes – can have so much depth of flavor. It really is a fine example of the miracles of infusion. The dried cèpe (porcini) mushroom powder packs a maximum of fragrance and flavor and takes well to many variations: pair it with paper-thin slices of raw domestic mushrooms or seared domestic or wild mushrooms showered in the bowl at serving time; prepare with dried morel powder in place of cèpes; top with thin slices of raw black truffles; or add a dollop of mushroom powder-infused whipped cream.

8 Servings

Equipment

A large jar with a lid, a 3-quart (3 l) heavy-duty saucepan with a lid, 8 warmed, shallow soup bowls.

INGREDIENTS

2 cups (500 ml) heavy cream
2 tablespoons cèpe powder (see Note)
1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
3 cups (750 ml) chicken or vegetable stock
Chopped fresh chives, for garnish
Extra virgin olive oil, or chive oil for garnish

Note

To prepare cèpe powder, coarsely chop or cut with a scissors about 2 ounces (30 g) of best-quality dried cèpe mushrooms. Working in batches, grind them to a fine powder in an electric spice mill. This should yield about 8 tablespoons of powder. Store the powder in a small jar, tightly sealed, in a cool, dry place, for up to 6 months.

METHOD

1. If time permits, combine the cream and mushroom powder in a jar, seal, and refrigerate for 24 hours to infuse the cream with the mushroom flavor and aroma. (Alternatively, combine the cream and mushroom powder in the heavy-duty saucepan, bring just to a simmer, cover, remove from the heat, and set aside for 30 minutes to infuse the cream.)

2. At serving time, in the saucepan, combine the infused cream, salt, and stock and bring to a gentle simmer over medium heat. Remove from the heat and taste for seasoning.

3. Serve in the warmed soup bowls, garnished with chives and a few drops of oil.

VARIATIONS: Add sliced raw domestic or wild mushrooms to the soup and cook for several minutes; add grilled, sliced cèpes or domestic or wild mushrooms; for a decadent flourish add truffle matchsticks at serving time.

MAKE AHEAD NOTE: The soup can be prepare up to 3 days in advance and stored in airtight containers in the refrigerator.

Chicken Fricassée

Emily Buchanan February 9, 2018

Neither my family nor my students ever get enough of a good chicken fricassée. Walter is a master at cutting up a chicken – students love to watch – and a nicely cut-up chicken (versus one that’s been “butchered”) makes all the difference.

6 servings

Equipment

A large, deep skillet or Dutch oven, with a lid.

INGREDIENTS

1 farm-fresh chicken (3 to 4 pounds; 1.5-2 kg), preferably organic and free-range, cut into 8 serving pieces, at room temperature
Fine sea salt
Coarse, freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 onions, peeled, halved and thinly sliced
2 fennel bulbs, trimmed and thinly sliced
1 cup (250 ml) white wine
1 28-ounce (794 g) can diced Italian tomatoes in juice
1 cup (115 g) green Picholine olives, pitted
1 cup (115 g )brine-cured black olives, pitted
1/4 cup (60 ml) capers in vinegar, drained
12 artichoke hearts marinated in olive oil, drained
Cooked rice or fresh pasta, for serving

METHOD

1. Liberally season the chicken on all sides with salt and pepper.

2. In the large, deep skillet, heat the oil over moderate heat until hot but not smoking. Add the chicken pieces (in batches if necessary) and brown until they turn an even golden color, about 5 minutes. Turn the pieces and brown them on the other side, 5 minutes more. Carefully regulate the heat to avoid scorching the skin. When the pieces are browned, use tongs (to avoid piercing the poultry) to transfer them to a platter.

3. Reduce the heat to low, add the onions and fennel to the skillet and sweat – cook, covered, over low heat – until soft but not browned, about 10 minutes. Return the chicken to the skillet. Add the wine, tomatoes (with juices), olives, capers and artichokes. Cover and simmer over low heat until the chicken is cooked through. About 30 minutes. Taste for seasoning. Serve with rice or fresh pasta.

Wine Suggestion

A regular house wine at our family table as well as in our classes is a Languedoc red, the Clos de l’Annel Corbières les Terrassettes from Sophie Guiraudo and Philippe Mathias. It’s a lively, spicy, peppery red that pairs well with this zesty chicken dish.