Rabbit with Mustard + Tarragon

Tender saddles of rabbit, bathed in bright-flavored mustard and tarragon sauce is both at “at home” meal as well as festive. I’ve lightened up and modernized this bistro classic, one that deserves its place at everyone’s table. Note that generally, rabbit has the same cooking time as chicken.

4 servings   

Equipment

Toothpicks or butcher’s twine; a large skillet with a lid; a 10-quart (10 l) pasta pot fitted with a colander; 4 warmed dinner plates.

INGREDIENTS

4 very thin slices pancetta or bacon
4 saddles of rabbit, each about 5 ounces (150 g)
Fine sea salt Coarse, freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 bottle (750 ml) dry white wine
1/2 cup (125 ml) French mustard
1 2/3 cups (410 ml) light cream or half-and-half
1/2 cup (20 g) minced fresh tarragon leaves
8 ounces (250 g) dried Italian tagliatelle pasta

METHOD

1.     Wrap a slice of pancetta or bacon around each saddle of rabbit and secure it with a toothpick or butcher’s twine. Season generously with salt and pepper. In a large skillet, heat the oil over moderate heat until hot but not smoking. Brown the rabbit on all sides until well seared, about 8 minutes total. Transfer the rabbit to a platter. Wipe out the skillet.

2.     Pour the wine into the skillet. Bring the wine to a boil and boil for 3 minutes to burn off the harshness of the alcohol. Add the mustard, cream, and half of the minced tarragon. Cover, bring to a simmer and simmer for 5 minutes. Taste for seasoning. Return the rabbit to the sauce, cover the skillet, and simmer for 15 minutes. The rabbit should be moist, tender, and cooked through.

3.     Transfer the rabbit to a platter. Remove and discard the toothpicks or twine.  Tent the rabbit lightly with foil.

4.     Meanwhile, bring 8 quarts (8 l) of water to a boil in the pasta pot. Add 3 tablespoons of fine sea salt to the water, add the pasta and cook just until firm to the bite. Drain the pasta.

5.     Add the pasta to the sauce, toss to coat the pasta, cover, and let sit for 2 minutes to allow the pasta to absorb the sauce. Transfer the pasta with a bit of sauce to the warmed dinner plates. Arrange a piece of rabbit alongside and spoon more sauce over the rabbit. Garnish with the remaining tarragon.

Wine Suggestion

I enjoy this with a southern Rhône white, the Côtes-du-Rhône Bouquet des Garrigues from domaine le Clos du Caillou. It’s sturdy enough to stand up to the mustard and tarragon but likes the tender meat of rabbit and chicken.

The Secret

A fresh, newly opened jar of imported French mustard. Freshness is the secret here. A favorite brand is Edmond Fallot, from the town of Beaune.

Variation

This is also delicious prepared with two skinless, boneless chicken breasts. Omit the pancetta, or grill or pan-fry it separately. Slice the breasts on the diagonal.  Prepare the sauce, brown the breasts in a pan and then add the poultry to sauce and simmer gently for 10 minutes. Garnish with the crumbled cooked pancetta.

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This recipe was first published in The French Kitchen Cookbook. All rights reserved. Please do not reproduce without permission.

Asian Chicken Balls in Broth

My love for Asian food is never-ending, and this easy, quick chicken meatball creation is a favorite. The secret here is to steam the meatballs so that they remain tender and succulent. Searing briefly afterwards adds a wonderfully caramelized crust without overcooking.

Makes 25 to 30 meatballs  

Equipment

A food processor; a bamboo steamer.

INGREDIENTS

1 pound (500 g) boneless, skinless free-range chicken breast meat
2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon Vietnamese fish sauce
3 tablespoons minced fresh ginger (or 1 tablespoon ground ginger)
1 teaspoon fine sea salt 1/2 cup (40 g) plain dry bread crumbs
1/2 cup (125 ml) minced scallions, both green and white parts
1 large egg, free-range and organic
1/4 cup minced fresh chives
1 cup loosely packed fresh cilantro leaves, plus more for garnish
1 tablespoon kaffir lime leaf powder (see page 443 of My Master Recipes; optional)
Chicken stock (page 402 of My Master Recipes), or William’s Thai Vegetable Bouillon (page 37 of My Master Recipes), warmed, for serving

METHOD

1.  Cut the chicken into 1-inch (2.5 cm) cubes. Spread the meat in a single layer on the baking sheet, cover with plastic wrap, and freeze for 1 hour. The chicken should be stiff. (Freezing will help the food processor blade cut the meat cleanly, rather than tearing or smearing it.)

2.  Place the cubes in the food processor and process for about 15 seconds, until the chicken is coarsely ground. Transfer the chicken to a large bowl, add 1 tablespoon of the sesame oil and the remaining ingredients (except the chicken stock) and use your hands to blend the mixture.

3.  To prevent the mixture from sticking, wet your hands with cold water, then shape the mixture into 1-1/2-inch (3 cm) balls, about the size of golf balls.

4.  In a medium saucepan bring 1 quart (1 l) of water to the boil over high heat.

5.  Arrange the meatballs side by side in the steamer, cover, and place on top of the saucepan. Steam until cooked through, about 5 minutes.

6.  In a skillet sear heat the remaining 1 tablespoon of sesame oil over medium-high heat and sear the meatballs for a few minutes to create a crunchy, colorful exterior. Serve in the chicken stock of vegetable stock, and garnish with fresh cilantro leaves.

VARIATIONS: Serve with a trio of Asian Dipping Sauces – such as my Quick Asian Dipping Sauce, Sweet and Spicy Dipping Sauce and Vietnamese Dipping Sauce (from My Master Recipes) – or deep-fry for 2 minutes and garnish with a mix of cilantro, basil and mint.

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This recipe was first published in My Master Recipes. All rights reserved. Please do not reproduce without permission.