Eggplant in Spicy Tomato Sauce with Feta

Until I began growing eggplant, I had no idea how vibrant, smoky, and intense it could be, so fresh and firm, picked just seconds before preparation. Come August, my garden flourishes with those shiny black, lean and long vegetables, hanging from their neat little tree-like plants, ready for the oven, the skillet, the grill. I like to harvest them small, when I feel the flavor is more intense. This roasted eggplant buried in a spicy tomato sauce is a personal favorite, with multiple variations. I like to serve it as a vegetarian main dish, sometimes showered with cubes of feta cheese and warmed just until the cheese begins to melt. The dish could also serve as a pasta sauce: chop the eggplant as it comes from the oven, then drop the cubes into the tomato sauce. Cumin, ginger, and pepper flakes have their place here as model partners to the versatile eggplant.

8 servings

Equipment

A baking sheet; a large, deep skillet with a lid.

INGREDIENTS

4 small, firm, fresh eggplants (each about 8 ounces; 250 g), washed but not peeled
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
2 onions, peeled, halved, and thinly sliced
6 plump, fresh garlic cloves, peeled, halved, and green germ removed
2 tablespoons finely slivered fresh ginger
1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes, or to taste
2 teaspoons ground cumin, toasted
One 28-ounce (794 g) can diced Italian tomatoes in juice
1 cup (125 g) Greek feta cheese, cubed (optional)

METHOD

1. Center a rack in the oven. Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C). 

2. Trim and discard the stem ends of the eggplants. Halve them lengthwise. Brush the flesh lightly with some of the oil and season lightly with salt. Place the eggplant halves, cut side down, on a baking sheet. Place in the oven and bake until the eggplant skin is soft and wrinkled and the cut side is golden, about 30 minutes.

3. When the eggplants have almost finished cooking, prepare the sauce: In the skillet, combine the onions, garlic, the remaining oil, and salt to taste. Toss to thoroughly coat the onions and garlic with the oil, and sweat – cook, covered, over low heat until soft and translucent – about 5 minutes. Add the ginger, pepper flakes, and cumin, and toss to evenly coat the onions. Add the tomatoes with juices and simmer, covered, for about 5 minutes.

4. Add the roasted eggplant halves, burying them, cut side down, in the sauce. Cover and cook until the eggplant is very tender and has absorbed much of the sauce, about 20 minutes. If using, add the cubes of feta cheese, warming the dish until the cheese melts. Taste for seasoning. Serve.

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This recipe was first published in The French Kitchen Cookbook. 
All rights reserved. Please do not reproduce without permission.

Spaghetti with Pecorino + Pepper: Cacio e Pepe

Sitting on the terrace of the bustling Roman trattoria Dal Bolognese one sunny Sunday in May, I relished a version of this classic dish, pungent with freshly ground black pepper and enriched with a mixture of sheep’s milk Pecorino cheese and Parmigiano-Reggiano. We were dining with our friends George Germon and Johanne Killeen, and George noted that this is one of the hardest pastas to get right, probably because it is so basic and appears easy. The pepper flavor should be dominant, but should not overwhelm the palate. We eat pasta at least once a week, and this is one of my “Go To” preparations, since it goes together in a matter of minutes and is such a thoroughly satisfying dish.

4 servings

EQUIPMENT

A 10-quart (10 l) pasta pot fitted with a colander; 4 warmed, shallow soup bowls.

INGREDIENTS

3 tablespoons coarse, freshly ground black pepper, preferably Tellicherry
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons (30 g) salted butter
3 tablespoons coarse sea salt
1 pound (500 g) Italian spaghetti
3/4 cup (50 g) freshly grated Pecorino-Romano cheese, plus extra for serving
3/4 cup (75 g) freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, plus extra for serving

METHOD

1.    Place the pepper in a large skillet over a medium heat and toast it, shaking the pan, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the oil and the butter and stir until the butter is melted. Remove from the heat.

2.    In the pasta pot, bring 8 quarts (8 l) of water to a rolling boil over high heat. Add the salt and the pasta, stirring to prevent the pasta from sticking. Cook until tender but firm to the bite. Remove the pasta pot from the heat. Remove the colander and drain the pasta over the sink, shaking to remove the excess water. Reserve some of the cooking water for the sauce.

3.    Return the skillet to the heat. Add about 4 tablespoons of the pasta water to the oil mixture and stir to blend. Add the pasta and toss until it is evenly coated. Add the cheeses and toss until the pasta is evenly coated. If the pasta is dry, add more pasta water. Serve immediately, with additional grated Pecorino and Parmigiano on the side.

THE SECRET

Buy the best peppercorns you can find. I favor the highly aromatic Tellicherry pepper from Malabar, off the coast of India, and love its spiciness, hint of wood, and lingering scent. The berries are left on the vines a bit longer, so they develop a deep, rich flavor. The peppercorns from The Spice House (thespicehouse.com) are fabulous and reliable. And do invest in a good pepper mill, one that will coarsely grind the peppercorns. I use a battery-powered Peugeot mill. Peugot mills are readily available in gourmet shops. (Note I have no affiliation with these brands, they are just the ones I like and chose to use in my kitchen).

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This recipe was first published in The French Kitchen Cookbook: Recipes and Lessons from Paris and Provence. All rights reserved. Please do not reproduce without permission.

Penne with Tomatoes, Rosemary, Olives, Artichokes + Capers

There are evenings when I crave pizza but don’t have the time to prepare it. That’s when I turn to this pasta dish, one that has all my favorite pizza toppings turned into a sauce, which I affectionately call Pizza Pasta. Penne is the preferred pasta here, for it’s sturdy enough to stand up to the rustic trimmings.

6 servings

EQUIPMENT

A 10-quart (10 l)  pasta pot fitted with a colander; 6 warmed, shallow soup bowls.

INGREDIENTS

3 tablespoons course sea salt
1 pound (500 g) Italian penne pasta
2 cups (500 ml) tomato sauce or one 28-ounce (794 g) can diced Italian tomatoes in juice
1 tablespoon finely minced fresh rosemary
1/2 cup (60 g) best-quality brine-cured black olives, pitted and halved lengthwise
12 artichoke hearts marinated in olive oil, drained and cut into bite-size pieces  
1/2 cup (60 g) capers in vinegar, drained
1 teaspoon fennel seeds
8 ounces (250 g) Italian whole-milk mozzarella, torn into bite-size pieces
4 tablespoons fresh basil leaves, torn
Hot red pepper flakes, for serving

METHOD

1.     In the pasta pot, bring 8 quarts (8 l) of water to a rolling boil over high heat.  Add the salt and the pasta, stirring to prevent the pasta from sticking. Cook until tender but firm to the bite.

2.     Meanwhile, in a saucepan that is large enough to hold the cooked pasta, combine the tomatoes sauce or canned tomatoes, rosemary, olives, artichokes, capers and fennel seeds. Simmer while the pasta is cooking.

3.     When the pasta is cooked, remove the pot from the heat. Remove the colander and drain the pasta over the sink, shaking to remove the excess water. Immediately transfer the drained pasta to the sauce in the saucepan. Toss to evenly coat the pasta. Cover and let rest for 1 to 2 minutes to allow the pasta to thoroughly absorb the sauce. Taste for seasoning. Transfer to the warmed soup bowls, and garnish with the cheese and basil. Pass the red pepper flakes.

WINE SUGGESTION

A favorite household red is the inky-purple Vacqueyras, the southern Rhône wine from Domaine des Amouriers. Their Les Genestes is a typical blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvedre, with lots of spice that marries well with this pasta dish.

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This recipe was first published in The French Kitchen Cookbook. All rights reserved. Please do not reproduce without permission.

Golden Almond-Crusted Sole Fillets

I first sampled this fish one sunny day in June, on the magical terrace of Mini Palais, the restaurant situated inside the Grand Palais museum in Paris. This is such an easy, quick, delicious dish and one that we have often made in class: The entire dish can be prepared several hours in advance and one can easily adjust the number, baking enough fillets to serve two or twenty!

4 servings

EQUIPMENT

A baking sheet lined with baking parchment.

INGREDIENTS

4 tablespoons (60 g) unsalted butter
4 tablespoons (30 g) almond meal (see Notes)
Fine sea salt
Coarse, freshly ground black pepper
8 fresh white-fleshed fish fillets, about 3 ounces (90 g) each (see Note) 
1/2 cup (40 g) sliced almonds

NOTES

•    Almond meal (sometimes called almond flour) is made from blanched or unblanched (skin-on) almonds. For this recipe, whole, unblanched almonds can be finely ground in a food processor or an electric spice mill. Do not over-process or you may end up with almond butter.

•    Any firm, white-fleshed fish fillets can be used here, such as halibut, flounder, trout, or perch. 
 

METHOD

1.    In a small pan, melt the butter. Remove from the heat and stir in the almond meal. Season with salt and pepper and stir again. Set aside to cool at room temperature until the mixture hardens and spreads easily. about 1 hour. (Do not refrigerate. The mixture may become too firm to spread.)

2.    Center a rack in the oven. Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C).

3.    Place the fillets side by side on the baking sheet. Season with salt and pepper. 

4.    Spread the cooled almond butter over the fillets. Cover the paste with a layer of sliced almonds. Place in the oven and bake the fillets for 4 minutes. To test for doneness, pierce a fillet with a knife set at a 45-degree angle. The fish should be opaque and flake easily. If the almonds are not sufficiently colored, place the fillets under the broiler until golden. Serve immediately.
 

WINE SUGGESTION

On that golden day we sampled the golden white from winemaker Olivier Merlin: His Macon la Roche Vineuse is pure, mineral-rich, a pleasure, and a fine match for this almond-flecked fish dish. 
 

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This recipe was first published in The French Kitchen Cookbook. All rights reserved. Please do not reproduce without permission.

Zucchini Carpaccio with Avocados, Pistachios + Pistachio Oil

Recipe demonstration begins at 32:18.

Neither my students nor I ever tire of this salad. It has all the qualities one looks for in a dish: crunch, smoothness, color, aroma. Serve with Crispy Flatbread (page 260 of Salad as a Meal), Tortilla Crisps (page 263 of Salad as a Meal) or toasted bread for added crunch. Don’t omit the fresh thyme here, for it plays an essential role in the color and aroma. 

4 servings 

Equipment

A small jar with a lid; a mandoline or a very sharp knife.  

Ingredients

1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
1/4 teaspoon Lemon Zest Salt
3 tablespoons best-quality pistachio oil (such as Leblanc) or extra-virgin olive oil
4 small, fresh zucchini (about 4 ounces; 115 g each) trimmed at both ends
1 large, ripe avocado
1/2 cup salted pistachios  
4 fresh lemon thyme sprigs, with flowers if possible
Fleur de sel

Method

1.  In the jar, combine the lemon juice and flavored salt. Cover with the lid and shake to blend. Add the oil, and shake to blend. 

2.  With a mandoline or sharp knife, slice the zucchini lengthwise as thin as possible. Arrange the slices on a platter, and pour the dressing over them. Tilt the platter back and forth to coat the slices evenly. Cover with plastic wrap and let marinate at room temperature for 30 minutes, so the zucchini absorbs the dressing and does not dry out.

3.  Halve, pit, and peel the avocado, and cut it lengthwise into very thin slices. Carefully arrange the slices of marinated zucchini on individual salad plates, alternating with the avocado slices, slightly overlapping them.  Sprinkle with the pistachio nuts. Garnish with the thyme sprigs and flowers and fleur de sel.  Serve.

Wine suggestion

Favorite wine partners for avocado include a young Pinot Grigio, a crisp-style Chardonnay, and a fragrant, well-chilled Sauvignon Blanc.

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This recipe was first published in Salad as a Meal. 
All rights reserved. Please do not reproduce without permission.

Heirloom Tomato Platter

In summer, if the conditions are right, my vegetable garden will usually produce enough heirloom tomatoes to feed an army. Among my preferred varieties are kaki coing, black prince, noire de crimée, and striped germain with their dramatic colors and gentle acidity. But whether market bought or from my homegrown bounty, this simple platter is a favorite way to enjoy a tomato's fresh juicy sweetness. Here I have topped the tomato slices with ruffles of the firm Swiss cheese Tête de Moine, shaved with a special machine called a girolle, but any cheese of choice can be used here.

6 servings

Equipment

A cheese girolle, a mandolin or a very sharp knife; a large serving platter.

Ingredients

6 ripe heirloom tomatoes (about 1 1/4 pounds; 625 g), preferably of varied colors
6 thin ruffles of Tête de Moine cheese, created with a cheese girolle or cut into paper-thin slices with a mandoline or a very sharp knife.
A handful of fresh herbs, such as green basil, purple basil, shiso and Delfino cilantro, rinsed and patted dry
About 2 tablespoons Lemon-Olive Oil Dressing
Fleur de sel

Method

Arrange the tomatoes in overlapping layers on the serving platter. Garnish with the cheese and herbs. Drizzle the dressing over all and season lightly with fleur de sel.

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This recipe was first published in The French Kitchen Cookbook. 
All rights reserved. Please do not reproduce without permission.

Cobb Salad

In mid summer, it is a fresh, crunchy salad that will get me through the day. This American classic is a favorite with the crunch of the iceberg and scallions, the soft richness of the avocado, the saltiness of the bacon, the sweetness of the tomato, the bite of the blue cheese – this salad has it all!  And it is beautiful to boot.

4 servings

Ingredients

2 1/2 ounces smoked bacon, rind removed, cut into matchsticks (3/4 cup)
1 head iceberg lettuce, chopped
2 ripe heirloom tomatoes, cored, , peeled, seeded and chopped
1 large, ripe avocado, halved, pitted, peeled, and cubed
4 ounces chilled blue cheese (preferably Roquefort), crumbled (1 cup)
4 small spring onions or scallions, white part only, trimmed, peeled and cut into thin rounds
Lemon-Yogurt Dressing
Coarse, freshly ground black pepper

Method

1.  In a large, dry skillet, brown the bacon over moderate heat until crisp and golden, about 5 minutes. With a slotted spoon, transfer the bacon to several layers of paper towel to absorb the fat. Blot the top of the bacon with several layers of paper towel to absorb any additional fat. Set aside.

2.  In a large shallow bowl, combine the bacon, lettuce, tomatoes, avocado, blue cheese, and spring onions. Toss with just enough Lemon-Yogurt Dressing to lightly and evenly coat the ingredients. Season with plenty of coarse, freshly ground black pepper and serve.

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This recipe was first published in Salad as a Meal
All rights reserved. Please do not reproduce without permission.

Flammekeuchen: Alsatian Bacon + Onion Tart

It’s no secret that I love making pizza, and Flammekuechen, the Alsatian version of a thin-crust pizza made with cream, onions and bacon, is a favorite, to bake in my wood-fired oven now that winter is really here.

In this version I have lightened the recipe by replacing the traditional cream with non-fat yogurt or fromage blanc and steaming the onions instead of sweating them in fat. However, on a chilly night you might just feel like adding back the cream and sweated onions! Serve with a green salad and a class of chilled Riesling and transport yourself to Alsace!

Makes 1 12-inch tart

Equipment

A baking stone; a steamer; a wooden pizza peel; a metal pizza peel or large metal spatula (If you don’t have a baking stone and a wooden peel, simply sprinkle the polenta on a baking sheet, place the round of dough on top, assemble the tart, and bake on the baking sheet).

Ingredients 

8 ounces (250 g) large white onions, peeled and cut crosswise into very thin rounds
4 ounces (125 g) thinly sliced pancetta or bacon, cut into cubes
1/2 cup (150 g) nonfat Greek-style yogurt or fromage blanc
1/8 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
Flour and polenta for dusting
1 recipe Quick Whole Wheat Bread Tart Dough, shaped into a ball
Coarse, freshly ground black pepper

Method

1.  Place the baking stone on the bottom rack of the oven. Preheat the oven to 500°F (260°C)

2.  Separate the onions into rings. You should have about 4 cups (1 liter) loosely packed onions.

3.  Bring 1 quart (1 liter) of water to a simmer in the bottom of a steamer. Place the onions on the steaming rack.  Place the rack over simmering water, cover, and steam until the onions are al dente 5 to 6 minutes. Remove the basket from the steamer to drain the onions.  (This can be done 2 to 3 hours before serving.

4.  In a large dry skillet, brown the pancetta over moderate heat until crisp and golden, 3 to 4 minutes. With a slotted spoon, transfer the pancetta to several layers of paper towels to absorb the fat. Blot the top of the pancetta with several layers of paper towel to absorb any additional fat.5.  In a medium bowl combine the yogurt, nutmeg, onions, and half of the pancetta. Stir to blend.

6.  On a generously floured work surface, roll the dough into a 12- inch (30 cm) round.

7.  Sprinkle the wooden pizza peel with polenta and place the round of dough on the peel.  Working quickly to keep the dough from sticking, assemble the tart: Spread the yogurt mixture evenly over the dough. Sprinkle with the remaining pancetta.

8.  Slide the dough off the peel and onto the baking stone. Bake until the dough is crisp and golden, and the top is bubbly, about 10 minutes.

9.  With the metal pizza peel or large spatula, remove the tart from the baking stone. Sprinkle generously with pepper.  Transfer to a cutting board and cut into 8 wedges. Serve immediately.

Wine suggestion

A young, fresh dry Alsatian Riesling is in order here: Try one from the reputable firms of Ostertag or Zind-Humbrecht – crisp, dry, smoky wines with a saline touch of chalky minerality, an even match for the creamy onion and pancetta mixture offset with a hit of black pepper.   

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This recipe were originally published in Salad as a Meal. 
All rights reserved. Please do not reproduce without permission.

Instant No-Knead Pizza + Bread Dough

This fool-proof, totally versatile no-knead dough is a staple in my kitchen. It can be made a few minutes ahead or days before. Made quickly in the food processor with instant yeast, it requires no kneading and is ready to use immediately for a rustic family pizza (page 283 of My Master Recipes), or with just a quick rise, for pinwheel loaves (page 285 of My Master Recipes) and focaccia (page 289 of My Master Recipes), fresh from your own oven!

Makes two 13-inch (33 cm) pizzas, 2 Pinwheel Loaves, or 1 Focaccia

Equipment

A measuring cup with a pouring spout; a food processor.

Ingredients

1 cup (250 ml) lukewarm water
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
3 cups (420 g) unbleached, all-purpose flour
1 package (about 2 teaspoons) instant yeast
2 1/4 teaspoons fine sea salt

Method

1.  In a cup with a pouring spout, combine the water and the oil.

2.  In the food processor, combine the flour, yeast, and salt. Pulse to blend. Add the liquid slowly through the feed tube, pulsing just before the dough forms a ball, 15 to 20 seconds. You may not need all the liquid. (If the dough is too wet, add a bit more flour. If it is too dry, add a bit more liquid).

3.  Transfer the dough to a clean work surface and form into a ball. The dough should be soft. Divide the dough into 2 equal balls. The dough can be used immediately, or can be stored in a airtight container refrigerated, for up to 5 days. Punch down the dough as necessary. 

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This recipe was first published in My Master Recipes.
All rights reserved. Please do not reproduce without permission.

Grilled Polenta with Tomato + Onion Sauce

This light, colorful vegetarian weeknight dinner is a favorite, inspired by my annual visits to my “boot camp” Rancho la Puerta in Tecate, Mexico. This soothing, comfort-food dinner knows few rivals, particularly in cold weather.

4 servings

Equipment

A 1-quart (1 l) gratin dish, 4 warmed dinner plates.

Ingredients

3 cups (750 ml) 1 % milk
1/2 cup (125 ml) light cream or half-and-half
1 1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
3/4 cup (135 g) instant polenta
1/2 cup (90 g) freshly grated Swiss Gruyère cheese, plus extra for garnish
1 large onion, peeled, halved lengthwise, and cut into thin half-rounds
1/4 cup (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
One 28-ounce (794 g) can peeled Italian plum tomatoes in juice
2 fresh or dried bay leaves
Fresh, flat-leafed parsley leaves, for garnish

Method

1.  In a large saucepan, bring the milk, cream, 1 teaspoon of the sea salt, and the nutmeg to a boil over medium heat. (Watch carefully, for milk will boil over quickly.) Add the polenta in a steady stream and, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, cook until the mixture begins to thicken, about 3 minutes.

2.  Remove from the heat. Add half of the cheese, stirring to blend thoroughly.  The polenta should be very creamy and pourable. Pour it into the gratin dish. Even out the top with a spatula. Sprinkle with the remaining cheese. Let sit at room temperature for about 30 minutes to firm up. (Or store, covered and refrigerated, for up to 3 days.)

3.  Prepare the tomato garnish: In a large skillet, combine the onion, 2 tablespoons of the olive oil, and the remaining 1/2 teaspoon sea salt and sweat – cook, covered over low heat until soft and translucent – about 5 minutes. With a large pair of scissors, cut the tomatoes in the can into small pieces. Add the bay leaves and tomatoes and their juices and cook, covered, over low heat for about 15 minutes. Taste for seasoning.

4.  At serving time, heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large skillet until hot but not smoking. Cut the polenta into 8 even squares. Sear each square on both sides until golden, about 2 minutes per side. Transfer the squares to the warmed plates, stacking the second slice at an angle over the first. Spoon the sauce all over. Garnish with parsley and cheese.

WINE SUGGESTION

An inexpensive everyday dish suggests an equally fine but gently priced wine. A favorite is Michel and Stephane Ogier’s La Rosine Syrah, a deep purple vin de pays from the hillsides north of the old Roman town of Vienne.

MAKE AHEAD NOTE

Both the tomato sauce and the polenta can be prepared up to 3 days in advance, then covered and refrigerated separately. Reheat at serving time.

THE SECRET

When using whole, canned tomatoes, use a scissors to cut the tomatoes into small pieces, making for a still chunky yet finer

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This recipe was first published in The French Kitchen Cookbook: Recipes and Lessons from Paris and Provence.

All rights reserved. Please do not reproduce without permission.

Salmon Sashimi with an Avalanche of Herbs

This is one of the more versatile fish dishes I can imagine. Inspired by Vietnamese cooking, it is the sort of recipe that can link itself to almost any cuisine. All you need is an avalanche of herbs (preferably four or five for variety and pungency), and a sauce that packs a whollop (Vietnamese dipping sauce is ideal here). Though my first instinct is to make this with salmon, the possibilities are endless. Any ultra-fresh fish could be used here, including scallops, halibut or any other firm white fish fillets. I can go wild with herbs: the last time I made this I created a mix of tarragon, basil, mint, chives, and shiso as well as strips of dried seaweed, or nori. I would stay away from fresh herbs that can be overly pungent, such as sage or oregano.

4 servings

Equipment

4 salad plates, stored in the freezer for at least 1 hour

Ingredients

1 pound (500 g) ultra-fresh, sashimi-grade salmon
1 packed cup (15 g) mixed fresh herbs, such as basil, mint, shiso, and cilantro, rinsed and patted dry  
1 to 2 tablespoons Vietnamese Dipping Sauce, plus extra for serving
Lime wedges, for serving

Method

1.  Slice the salmon as thin as possible and arrange the slices on individual salad plates.

2.  Finely mince the herbs and scatter evenly over the salmon. Sprinkle the lemongrass on top.

3.  At serving time, sprinkle with the dipping sauce. Serve with the lime wedges and additional sauce alongside.

Wine suggestion

A floral white is ideal here. We often enjoy the sashimi with Olivier Leflaive’s 100% Chardonnay Bourgogne blanc, always a good-value white Burgundy.

The Secret

An avalanche of fresh herbs. You can never have too many or too many varieties.

Variation

Marinate the salmon in the dipping sauce for added punch and Asian flavor.

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This recipe was first published in The French Kitchen Cookbook: Recipes and Lessons from Paris and Provence.

All rights reserved. Please do not reproduce without permission.

Jerusalem Artichoke Soup

How can this gnarled and knobby vegetable offer such elegance? This soup deserves a pedestal, as the creamy alabaster liquid flecked with bits of brown, elicits looks of surprise from guests followed by sounds of happy pleasures.

8 servings

Equipment

A blender or a food processor; 8 warmed, shallow soup bowls.

INGREDIENTS

2 quarts (2 l) whole milk
2 teaspoons fine sea salt
2 pounds (1 kg) Jerusalem artichokes (sunchokes), scrubbed but not peeled
1/4 cup (30 g) salted pistachios, toasted (optional)
Best-quality pistacho oil, such as Leblanc brand, for garnish (optional)

METHOD

1.    Rinse a large saucepan with water, leaving a bit of water in the pan (this will prevent the milk from scorching and sticking to the pan.)  Pour the milk into the pan and add the salt.

2.    Trim the Jerusalem artichokes, and chop them coarsely, dropping them into the milk as you work (this will prevent the vegetable from turning brown as it is exposed to the air). When all the Jerusalem artichokes are prepared, place the pan over medium heat and cook gently until they are soft, 35 to 40  minutes. Watch carefully so the milk does not boil over. The milk may curdle, but that will not alter the texture or flavor of the final soup.

3.    Transfer the mixture, in small batches, to the blender or food processor. Do not place the plunger in the feed tube of the  food processor or in the lid of blender, or the heat will create a vacuum and the liquid will splatter. Puree until the mixture is  perfectly smooth and silken, 1 to 2 minutes.

4.    Return the soup to the saucepan and reheat gently. Taste for seasoning. Transfer it to the warmed, shallow soup bowls, garnished, if desired, with pistachios and pistachio oil and serve.

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This recipe was first published in Simply Truffles. All rights reserved. Please do not reproduce without permission.

Red Tomato Gazpacho

A cool gazpacho summer soup is the perfect example of a quick and easy emulsion, as the blender and golden olive oil work their magic to transform a handful of ingredients into a velvety chilled delight.

8 servings

Equipment

A blender, food processor or immersion blender 8 chilled, shallow soup bowls or glasses.

INGREDIENTS

2 pounds (1 kg) ripe red tomatoes, rinsed, cored, cut into chunks  
1 small cucumber (about 6 ounces; 180 g) peeled, cut into chunks
1 small mildly hot pepper such as Anaheim, stemmed, cut into chunks
1 small red onion, peeled, cut into chunks
2 plump, fresh garlic cloves, peeled, halved, green germ removed if present
2 teaspoons best-quality red wine or sherry wine vinegar
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
1/2 cup (125 ml) mild extra-virgin olive oil

METHOD

1.    In the blender, combine the tomatoes, cucumber, pepper, onion, and garlic. Blend at highest speed until well emulsified and very smooth, a full 2 minutes. With the motor running, add the vinegar and salt. Slowly drizzle in the olive oil, until the mixture is smooth, thick and emulsified.

2.    Cover and refrigerate until well chilled. Pour into chilled bowls or glasses to serve.
 
MAKE AHEAD NOTE: The soup can be prepared up to 3 days in advance and stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator. Re-blend at serving time.

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This recipe was first published in My Master Recipes. All rights reserved. Please do not reproduce without permission.

Yveline's Chilled Cucumber Soup

Yveline is our good friend and neighbor in Provence, and she is always coming up with simple local recipes that we love. This is one of her summertime creations: We sometimes add a dollop of avocado sorbet, a fine act of gilding the lily.

 8 servings

EQUIPMENT

A blender or a food processor. 

INGREDIENTS

1 large European cucumber (about 1 pound; 500 g, peeled and chopped

2 large ripe avocados, halved, pitted, peeled, and cubed

2 cups (500 ml) Homemade Chicken or Vegetable Stock (page 000)

1 cup (45 g) cilantro leaves

1 teaspoon fine sea salt   

Grated zest and juice of 1 lime, preferably organic

Avocado Sorbet, optional

METHOD

1.     In the blender or food processor combine the cucumber, half of the cubed avocado, the chicken stock, half of the cilantro, and salt, and process to blend. Taste for seasoning. Chill for at least 1 hour and up to 24 hours.
 

2.     At serving time, garnish with the remaining cilantro, the rest of the avocado, the lime juice and zest.  If using, place a scoop of avocado sorbet in the center of the bowl.

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This recipe was first published in My Master Recipes. All rights reserved. Please do not reproduce without permission.

Magic Mushroom Soup

I call this crowd-pleasing soup my magic recipe. It is so amazing that so few ingredients – and a soup made in a matter of minutes – can have so much depth of flavor. It really is a fine example of the miracles of infusion. The dried cèpe (porcini) mushroom powder packs a maximum of fragrance and flavor and takes well to many variations: pair it with paper-thin slices of raw domestic mushrooms or seared domestic or wild mushrooms showered in the bowl at serving time; prepare with dried morel powder in place of cèpes; top with thin slices of raw black truffles; or add a dollop of mushroom powder-infused whipped cream.

8 Servings

Equipment

A large jar with a lid, a 3-quart (3 l) heavy-duty saucepan with a lid, 8 warmed, shallow soup bowls.

INGREDIENTS

2 cups (500 ml) heavy cream
2 tablespoons cèpe powder (see Note)
1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
3 cups (750 ml) chicken or vegetable stock
Chopped fresh chives, for garnish
Extra virgin olive oil, or chive oil for garnish

Note

To prepare cèpe powder, coarsely chop or cut with a scissors about 2 ounces (30 g) of best-quality dried cèpe mushrooms. Working in batches, grind them to a fine powder in an electric spice mill. This should yield about 8 tablespoons   of powder. Store the powder in a small jar, tightly sealed, in a cool, dry place, for up to 6 months.

METHOD

1.     If time permits, combine the cream and mushroom powder in a jar, seal, and refrigerate for 24 hours to infuse the cream with the mushroom flavor and aroma. (Alternatively, combine the cream and mushroom powder in the heavy-duty saucepan, bring just to a simmer, cover, remove from the heat, and set aside for 30 minutes to infuse the cream.)

2.     At serving time, in the saucepan, combine the infused cream, salt, and stock and bring to a gentle simmer over medium heat. Remove from the heat and taste for seasoning.

3.     Serve in the warmed soup bowls, garnished with chives and a few drops of oil.

VARIATIONS: Add sliced raw domestic or wild mushrooms to the soup and cook for several minutes; add grilled, sliced cèpes or domestic or wild mushrooms; for a decadent flourish add truffle matchsticks at serving time.

MAKE AHEAD NOTE: The soup can be prepare up to 3 days in advance and stored in airtight containers in the refrigerator.

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This recipe was first published in My Master Recipes. All rights reserved. Please do not reproduce without permission.

Asian Chicken Balls in Broth

My love for Asian food is never-ending, and this easy, quick chicken meatball creation is a favorite. The secret here is to steam the meatballs so that they remain tender and succulent. Searing briefly afterwards adds a wonderfully caramelized crust without overcooking.

Makes 25 to 30 meatballs  

Equipment

A food processor; a bamboo steamer.

INGREDIENTS

1 pound (500 g) boneless, skinless free-range chicken breast meat
2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon Vietnamese fish sauce
3 tablespoons minced fresh ginger (or 1 tablespoon ground ginger)
1 teaspoon fine sea salt 1/2 cup (40 g) plain dry bread crumbs
1/2 cup (125 ml) minced scallions, both green and white parts
1 large egg, free-range and organic
1/4 cup minced fresh chives
1 cup loosely packed fresh cilantro leaves, plus more for garnish
1 tablespoon kaffir lime leaf powder (see page 443 of My Master Recipes; optional)
Chicken stock (page 402 of My Master Recipes), or William’s Thai Vegetable Bouillon (page 37 of My Master Recipes), warmed, for serving

METHOD

1.  Cut the chicken into 1-inch (2.5 cm) cubes. Spread the meat in a single layer on the baking sheet, cover with plastic wrap, and freeze for 1 hour. The chicken should be stiff. (Freezing will help the food processor blade cut the meat cleanly, rather than tearing or smearing it.)

2.  Place the cubes in the food processor and process for about 15 seconds, until the chicken is coarsely ground. Transfer the chicken to a large bowl, add 1 tablespoon of the sesame oil and the remaining ingredients (except the chicken stock) and use your hands to blend the mixture.

3.  To prevent the mixture from sticking, wet your hands with cold water, then shape the mixture into 1-1/2-inch (3 cm) balls, about the size of golf balls.

4.  In a medium saucepan bring 1 quart (1 l) of water to the boil over high heat.

5.  Arrange the meatballs side by side in the steamer, cover, and place on top of the saucepan. Steam until cooked through, about 5 minutes.

6.  In a skillet sear heat the remaining 1 tablespoon of sesame oil over medium-high heat and sear the meatballs for a few minutes to create a crunchy, colorful exterior. Serve in the chicken stock of vegetable stock, and garnish with fresh cilantro leaves.

VARIATIONS: Serve with a trio of Asian Dipping Sauces – such as my Quick Asian Dipping Sauce, Sweet and Spicy Dipping Sauce and Vietnamese Dipping Sauce (from My Master Recipes) – or deep-fry for 2 minutes and garnish with a mix of cilantro, basil and mint.

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This recipe was first published in My Master Recipes. All rights reserved. Please do not reproduce without permission.