Zucchini Carpaccio with Avocados, Pistachios + Pistachio Oil

Recipe demonstration begins at 32:18.

Neither my students nor I ever tire of this salad. It has all the qualities one looks for in a dish: crunch, smoothness, color, aroma. Serve with Crispy Flatbread (page 260 of Salad as a Meal), Tortilla Crisps (page 263 of Salad as a Meal) or toasted bread for added crunch. Don’t omit the fresh thyme here, for it plays an essential role in the color and aroma. 

4 servings 

Equipment

A small jar with a lid; a mandoline or a very sharp knife.  

Ingredients

1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
1/4 teaspoon Lemon Zest Salt
3 tablespoons best-quality pistachio oil (such as Leblanc) or extra-virgin olive oil
4 small, fresh zucchini (about 4 ounces; 115 g each) trimmed at both ends
1 large, ripe avocado
1/2 cup salted pistachios  
4 fresh lemon thyme sprigs, with flowers if possible
Fleur de sel

Method

1.  In the jar, combine the lemon juice and flavored salt. Cover with the lid and shake to blend. Add the oil, and shake to blend. 

2.  With a mandoline or sharp knife, slice the zucchini lengthwise as thin as possible. Arrange the slices on a platter, and pour the dressing over them. Tilt the platter back and forth to coat the slices evenly. Cover with plastic wrap and let marinate at room temperature for 30 minutes, so the zucchini absorbs the dressing and does not dry out.

3.  Halve, pit, and peel the avocado, and cut it lengthwise into very thin slices. Carefully arrange the slices of marinated zucchini on individual salad plates, alternating with the avocado slices, slightly overlapping them.  Sprinkle with the pistachio nuts. Garnish with the thyme sprigs and flowers and fleur de sel.  Serve.

Wine suggestion

Favorite wine partners for avocado include a young Pinot Grigio, a crisp-style Chardonnay, and a fragrant, well-chilled Sauvignon Blanc.

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This recipe was first published in Salad as a Meal. 
All rights reserved. Please do not reproduce without permission.

Heirloom Tomato Platter

In summer, if the conditions are right, my vegetable garden will usually produce enough heirloom tomatoes to feed an army. Among my preferred varieties are kaki coing, black prince, noire de crimée, and striped germain with their dramatic colors and gentle acidity. But whether market bought or from my homegrown bounty, this simple platter is a favorite way to enjoy a tomato's fresh juicy sweetness. Here I have topped the tomato slices with ruffles of the firm Swiss cheese Tête de Moine, shaved with a special machine called a girolle, but any cheese of choice can be used here.

6 servings

Equipment

A cheese girolle, a mandolin or a very sharp knife; a large serving platter.

Ingredients

6 ripe heirloom tomatoes (about 1 1/4 pounds; 625 g), preferably of varied colors
6 thin ruffles of Tête de Moine cheese, created with a cheese girolle or cut into paper-thin slices with a mandoline or a very sharp knife.
A handful of fresh herbs, such as green basil, purple basil, shiso and Delfino cilantro, rinsed and patted dry
About 2 tablespoons Lemon-Olive Oil Dressing
Fleur de sel

Method

Arrange the tomatoes in overlapping layers on the serving platter. Garnish with the cheese and herbs. Drizzle the dressing over all and season lightly with fleur de sel.

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This recipe was first published in The French Kitchen Cookbook. 
All rights reserved. Please do not reproduce without permission.

Cobb Salad

In mid summer, it is a fresh, crunchy salad that will get me through the day. This American classic is a favorite with the crunch of the iceberg and scallions, the soft richness of the avocado, the saltiness of the bacon, the sweetness of the tomato, the bite of the blue cheese – this salad has it all!  And it is beautiful to boot.

4 servings

Ingredients

2 1/2 ounces smoked bacon, rind removed, cut into matchsticks (3/4 cup)
1 head iceberg lettuce, chopped
2 ripe heirloom tomatoes, cored, , peeled, seeded and chopped
1 large, ripe avocado, halved, pitted, peeled, and cubed
4 ounces chilled blue cheese (preferably Roquefort), crumbled (1 cup)
4 small spring onions or scallions, white part only, trimmed, peeled and cut into thin rounds
Lemon-Yogurt Dressing
Coarse, freshly ground black pepper

Method

1.  In a large, dry skillet, brown the bacon over moderate heat until crisp and golden, about 5 minutes. With a slotted spoon, transfer the bacon to several layers of paper towel to absorb the fat. Blot the top of the bacon with several layers of paper towel to absorb any additional fat. Set aside.

2.  In a large shallow bowl, combine the bacon, lettuce, tomatoes, avocado, blue cheese, and spring onions. Toss with just enough Lemon-Yogurt Dressing to lightly and evenly coat the ingredients. Season with plenty of coarse, freshly ground black pepper and serve.

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This recipe was first published in Salad as a Meal
All rights reserved. Please do not reproduce without permission.

Salmon Sashimi with an Avalanche of Herbs

This is one of the more versatile fish dishes I can imagine. Inspired by Vietnamese cooking, it is the sort of recipe that can link itself to almost any cuisine. All you need is an avalanche of herbs (preferably four or five for variety and pungency), and a sauce that packs a whollop (Vietnamese dipping sauce is ideal here). Though my first instinct is to make this with salmon, the possibilities are endless. Any ultra-fresh fish could be used here, including scallops, halibut or any other firm white fish fillets. I can go wild with herbs: the last time I made this I created a mix of tarragon, basil, mint, chives, and shiso as well as strips of dried seaweed, or nori. I would stay away from fresh herbs that can be overly pungent, such as sage or oregano.

4 servings

Equipment

4 salad plates, stored in the freezer for at least 1 hour

Ingredients

1 pound (500 g) ultra-fresh, sashimi-grade salmon
1 packed cup (15 g) mixed fresh herbs, such as basil, mint, shiso, and cilantro, rinsed and patted dry  
1 to 2 tablespoons Vietnamese Dipping Sauce, plus extra for serving
Lime wedges, for serving

Method

1.  Slice the salmon as thin as possible and arrange the slices on individual salad plates.

2.  Finely mince the herbs and scatter evenly over the salmon. Sprinkle the lemongrass on top.

3.  At serving time, sprinkle with the dipping sauce. Serve with the lime wedges and additional sauce alongside.

Wine suggestion

A floral white is ideal here. We often enjoy the sashimi with Olivier Leflaive’s 100% Chardonnay Bourgogne blanc, always a good-value white Burgundy.

The Secret

An avalanche of fresh herbs. You can never have too many or too many varieties.

Variation

Marinate the salmon in the dipping sauce for added punch and Asian flavor.

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This recipe was first published in The French Kitchen Cookbook: Recipes and Lessons from Paris and Provence.

All rights reserved. Please do not reproduce without permission.

Red Ruby Bars

Rhubarb – still known as “pie plant” – always reminds me of my childhood, because wherever we lived my mother was sure to plant rhubarb in the vegetable garden, ensuring a steady supply of this tangy vegetable for pies as well as sauces for spooning over vanilla ice cream. But rhubarb can be visually problematic, often losing its gorgeous rub red color as it cooks. I think that I have found a solution: in these delectable bars the rhubarb is not precooked – it is cut into extra-thin slices so it cooks quickly as the bars bake, retaining its bright red color.

Makes 16 squares

Equipment

A 9 1/2  x 9 1/2-inch (24 cm) square baking pan; baking parchment; a food processor.

Ingredients

Pastry

4 tablespoons (60 g) salted butter, chilled
1 cup (140 g) unbleached, all-purpose flour
1/3 cup (65 g) confectioners’ sugar
Grated zest of 1 lemon, preferably organic
1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt  
2 tablespoons plain nonfat yogurt

Topping

3/4 cup (150 g) unrefined cane sugar, preferably organic, vanilla scented
1/4 cup (40 g) unbleached, all-purpose flour
4 large egg whites, preferably organic and free range
3 cups (300 g) thinly sliced rhubarb stalks (about seven 10-inch; 26 cm)

Method

1.  Center a rack in the oven. Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C).

2.  Line the baking pan with two pieces of baking parchment, letting the parchment hang over the sides. (This will make it easier to remove the dessert once baked.)

3.  Prepare the pastry: In the food processor, combine all the pastry ingredients and process to blend. The mixture should be soft and pliable.

4.  Press the dough evenly into the bottom of the baking pan. Place the pan in the oven and bake until firm, about 12 minutes.

5.     While the pastry is baking, prepare the topping: In a bowl, combine the sugar, flour, and egg whites and whisk to blend. Add the rhubarb and stir to coat it evenly with the egg-white mixture.

6.     Remove the pan from the oven and spoon the rhubarb topping over the warm pastry. Return the baking pan to the oven and bake until the topping is firm and golden, 35 to 40 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool. Remove from the pan and cut into 16 squares. Serve at room temperature. (Store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 days.)

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This recipe was first published in The French Kitchen Cookbook: Recipes and Lessons from Paris and Provence.

All rights reserved. Please do not reproduce without permission.

Fig + Almond Tart

We have multiple varieties of fig trees on our property in Provence, and from June to October they offer an abundance of sweet fruits, some vibrant green, some green tinged with purple, and some almost black. My favorite variety is the small and delightfully sweet Ronde de Bordeaux, an ideal fig for tarts and jams.  

8 servings  

Equipment

A 10-inch (25 cm) tart pan with a removable bottom; a rolling pin; a baking sheet lined with baking parchment; a blender or a food processor.

Ingredients

A 14-ounce (400 g) sheet of Blitz Puff Pastry (page 294 or The French Kitchen Cookbook) or purchased all-butter puff pastry, thawed (see Notes)
1 cup (80 g) almond meal (see Note)
5 tablespoons (75 g) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1/3 cup (65 g) unrefined cane sugar, preferably organic, vanilla scented
2 tablespoons (20 g) unbleached, all-purpose flour
1 egg yolk, preferably organic and free-range
1 tablespoon fig jam 1 3/4 pounds (875 g; 35 to 40) small purple figs, stems trimmed Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting
Roasted Fig Sorbet (page 272 of The French Kitchen Cookbook), for serving

Notes

In our tests, we have preferred Dufour brand frozen puff pastry, available at most specialty supermarkets. See www.dufourpastrykitchens.com. Be sure to leave ample time for thawing frozen dough, at least 6 hours in the refrigerator.

Almond meal (sometimes called almond flour) is made from whole, unblanched (skin-on) almonds. For this recipe, whole, unblanched almonds can be finely ground in a food processor. Do not over-process or you may end up with almond butter.

METHOD

1.  Fold the pastry in half, transfer it to the tart pan and unfold it. Without stretching the dough, lift it up at the edges so that it naturally falls against the rim of the pan. With your fingertips, very delicately coax the dough onto the rim. There should be a generous overhang. With the rolling pin, roll over the top of the tin, trimming off the overhanging pastry to create a smooth, well-trimmed shell.

2.  Center a rack in the oven. Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Place the tart shell on the baking sheet.

3.  In the food processor, combine the almond meal, butter, sugar, flour, egg yolk, and fig jam and process to blend. Transfer the almond mixture to the pastry shell. Smooth out the top with a spatula. Place in the oven and bake just until the pastry firms up and begins to brown, and the almond mixture browns, about 10 minutes. Remove from the oven.

4.  Cut an X in the top of each fig and gently squeeze from the bottom to open the fruit like a flower. Arrange the figs, cut side up, side by side on top of the almond mixture.

5.  Return the tart pan to the oven and bake until the figs and the filling are dark and bubbly, 20 to 25 minutes. Remove from the oven and transfer to a rack to cool. While the tart is still warm, sprinkle with confectioners’ sugar. After about 10 minutes, carefully remove the tart from the sides of the pan, leaving it on the pan base. Serve warm or at room temperature, cut into wedges, with Roasted Fig Sorbet. This tart is best served the day it is baked.

The secret: Ripe, but not overly ripe figs, which tend to give up too much liquid and turn the pastry soggy. Tip: Figs freeze beautifully. Treat them as you would berries: Arrange the whole fruit stem side up, side by side on a baking sheet, and place in the freezer. Once frozen, transfer to a zippered plastic bag and freeze for up to 3 months. For use, thaw at room temperature.

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This recipe was first published in The French Kitchen Cookbook: Recipes and Lessons from Paris and Provence.

All rights reserved. Please do not reproduce without permission.

Tomato Tatins

My good friend Jeffrey Bergman kindly shared this recipe with me one sunny August in Provence. We worked and worked on it (shucks had to eat it SO many times!) until we came up with this version, which we love. It is so fragrant and beautiful, and one of those did I really make these beauties?.

8 servings

Equipment

Three baking sheets; eight 1/2 cup (125 ml) ramekins; a 3 1/2-inch (8.75 cm) pastry cutter.

INGREDIENTS

Tomatoes

3 pounds (1.5 kg) small, firm, garden-fresh red heirloom tomatoes (about 15)
Fine sea salt Extra-virgin olive oil spray Pastry
A 14-ounce (400 g) sheet of my Blitz Puff Pastry recipe, well chilled, or purchased all-butter puff pastry, thawed (see Note)

Shallots

4 large shallots peeled, halved lengthwise, and cut into thin half-moons
2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon ground Espelette pepper or other mild ground chile pepper
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

caramel

1/2 cup (100 g) white, refined sugar (do not use dark, unrefined cane sugar)
4 teaspoons water
1/8 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

16 fresh basil leaves, plus more leaves for garnish
1/4 cup (25 g) freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

note

In our tests, we have preferred Dufour brand frozen puff pastry, available at most specialty supermarkets. See www.dufourpastrykitchens.com. Be sure to leave ample time for thawing frozen dough, at least 6 hours in he refrigerator.

METHOD

1.     Roast the tomatoes: Center a rack in the oven. Preheat the oven to 275°F (135°C). 

 2.     Core the tomatoes and halve them crosswise (at the equator.) Arrange the tomatoes, cut side up, side by side, on the baking sheet. Sprinkle lightly with salt. Spray lightly with oil. Place the baking sheet in the oven and bake until the tomatoes have shrunk by about one-third, 1 1/2 to 2 hours. This is an important step to condense tomato flavor and reduce moisture. (The tomatoes can be baked up to 1 day in advance, stored in an airtight container, and refrigerated.)

 3.     Prepare the pastry: With the pastry cutter, cut out 8 rounds of pastry. Arrange the rounds side by side on a baking sheet. With a fork, prick the pastry. (The pastry rounds can be prepared up to 8 hours in advance. Cover and refrigerate.)

 4.     Prepare the shallot mixture: In a small saucepan, combine the shallots, oil, and 1/2 teaspoon of salt. Stir to coat the shallots with the oil. Sweat – cook, covered, over low heat, stirring frequently, until the shallots are soft and translucent – about 5 minutes. Add the Espelette pepper and the vinegar. Increase the heat to medium high and cook until the vinegar has evaporated, but the mixture remains moist. Taste for seasoning. (The shallots can be prepared up to 1 day in advance, stored in an airtight container and refrigerated.)

 5.     Prepare the caramel: In a medium saucepan, combine the sugar, water, and lemon juice and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to medium and cook undisturbed until sugar begins to caramelize, about 1 minute.  Pay close attention as the caramel will deepen in color quickly at this stage.  Swirl the pan gently and cook until the caramel is a deep amber, about 1 minute more.  Spoon a generous tablespoon of the caramel into the ramekins and tilt the ramekins so that the caramel evenly coats the bottom. (This can be done up to 8 hours in advance. Store at room temperature.)

6.     Bake the tatins: About 30 minutes before baking the tatins, center a rack in the oven. Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C).

7.     Arrange the caramel-coated ramekins side by side on a baking sheet. Place 2 or 3 tomato halves, cut side up, into each ramekin. Press down on the tomatoes so that they fit snugly into the ramekins. Spoon the shallot mixture on top of the tomatoes. Place 2 basil leaves on top of the shallots.  Sprinkle with the cheese.

 8.     Place a round of chilled pastry on top of each ramekin and tuck the dough around the tomatoes. Place the baking sheet in the oven and bake until the pastry is puffed and golden and the tomatoes are bubbling around the edges, 25 to 35 minutes. Remove the baking sheet from the oven and transfer the ramekins to a rack to cool for at least 2 minutes.

 9.     Carefully invert each tatin onto an individual salad plate. Serve slightly warm or at room temperature, garnished with basil leaves. (The tatins can be prepared up to 8 hours in advance, stored at room temperature.)

The Secret

This dish offers a beautiful balance of sweet and acid. The shallots and vinegar, as well as the touch of caramel, are essential to creating a dish full of contrasting flavors.

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This recipe was first published in The French Kitchen Cookbook. All rights reserved. Please do not reproduce without permission.

Red Tomato Gazpacho

A cool gazpacho summer soup is the perfect example of a quick and easy emulsion, as the blender and golden olive oil work their magic to transform a handful of ingredients into a velvety chilled delight.

8 servings

Equipment

A blender, food processor or immersion blender 8 chilled, shallow soup bowls or glasses.

INGREDIENTS

2 pounds (1 kg) ripe red tomatoes, rinsed, cored, cut into chunks  
1 small cucumber (about 6 ounces; 180 g) peeled, cut into chunks
1 small mildly hot pepper such as Anaheim, stemmed, cut into chunks
1 small red onion, peeled, cut into chunks
2 plump, fresh garlic cloves, peeled, halved, green germ removed if present
2 teaspoons best-quality red wine or sherry wine vinegar
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
1/2 cup (125 ml) mild extra-virgin olive oil

METHOD

1.    In the blender, combine the tomatoes, cucumber, pepper, onion, and garlic. Blend at highest speed until well emulsified and very smooth, a full 2 minutes. With the motor running, add the vinegar and salt. Slowly drizzle in the olive oil, until the mixture is smooth, thick and emulsified.

2.    Cover and refrigerate until well chilled. Pour into chilled bowls or glasses to serve.
 
MAKE AHEAD NOTE: The soup can be prepared up to 3 days in advance and stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator. Re-blend at serving time.

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This recipe was first published in My Master Recipes. All rights reserved. Please do not reproduce without permission.

Yveline's Chilled Cucumber Soup

Yveline is our good friend and neighbor in Provence, and she is always coming up with simple local recipes that we love. This is one of her summertime creations: We sometimes add a dollop of avocado sorbet, a fine act of gilding the lily.

 8 servings

EQUIPMENT

A blender or a food processor. 

INGREDIENTS

1 large European cucumber (about 1 pound; 500 g, peeled and chopped

2 large ripe avocados, halved, pitted, peeled, and cubed

2 cups (500 ml) Homemade Chicken or Vegetable Stock (page 000)

1 cup (45 g) cilantro leaves

1 teaspoon fine sea salt   

Grated zest and juice of 1 lime, preferably organic

Avocado Sorbet, optional

METHOD

1.     In the blender or food processor combine the cucumber, half of the cubed avocado, the chicken stock, half of the cilantro, and salt, and process to blend. Taste for seasoning. Chill for at least 1 hour and up to 24 hours.
 

2.     At serving time, garnish with the remaining cilantro, the rest of the avocado, the lime juice and zest.  If using, place a scoop of avocado sorbet in the center of the bowl.

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This recipe was first published in My Master Recipes. All rights reserved. Please do not reproduce without permission.