Anchoïade: Anchovy Cream

Each day in cooking class we prepare at least one or two appetizers, a sign that it’s time to open a bottle of wine and relax. And this is a perennial favorite. Throughout Provence anchoïade (anchovy cream) is a popular starter, often used as a dip for a selection of raw vegetables. Recipes vary dramatically from cook to cook and I like to keep mine simple, with just a trio of ingredients: top-quality anchovy fillets cured in olive oil, capers, and cream.

Makes 1/2 cup (125 ml) 

Equipment

A mini food processor or a standard food processor fitted with a small bowl.

INGREDIENTS

One 2.82-ounce (80 g) jar Italian anchovy fillets in olive oil (about 20 fillets)
1 tablespoon capers in vinegar, drained
1/4 cup (60 ml) light cream

METHOD

Combine the ingredients in the bowl of the food processor or a blender and process to a chunky consistency. Use as a dip for raw vegetables, to prepare Anchovy Bites (recipe in The French Kitchen Cookbook), or as a sandwich spread.

(Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.)

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This recipe was first published in The French Kitchen Cookbook. All rights reserved. Please do not reproduce without permission.

Zucchini Carpaccio with Avocados, Pistachios + Pistachio Oil

Recipe demonstration begins at 32:18.

Neither my students nor I ever tire of this salad. It has all the qualities one looks for in a dish: crunch, smoothness, color, aroma. Serve with Crispy Flatbread (page 260 of Salad as a Meal), Tortilla Crisps (page 263 of Salad as a Meal) or toasted bread for added crunch. Don’t omit the fresh thyme here, for it plays an essential role in the color and aroma. 

4 servings 

Equipment

A small jar with a lid; a mandoline or a very sharp knife.  

Ingredients

1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
1/4 teaspoon Lemon Zest Salt
3 tablespoons best-quality pistachio oil (such as Leblanc) or extra-virgin olive oil
4 small, fresh zucchini (about 4 ounces; 115 g each) trimmed at both ends
1 large, ripe avocado
1/2 cup salted pistachios  
4 fresh lemon thyme sprigs, with flowers if possible
Fleur de sel

Method

1.  In the jar, combine the lemon juice and flavored salt. Cover with the lid and shake to blend. Add the oil, and shake to blend. 

2.  With a mandoline or sharp knife, slice the zucchini lengthwise as thin as possible. Arrange the slices on a platter, and pour the dressing over them. Tilt the platter back and forth to coat the slices evenly. Cover with plastic wrap and let marinate at room temperature for 30 minutes, so the zucchini absorbs the dressing and does not dry out.

3.  Halve, pit, and peel the avocado, and cut it lengthwise into very thin slices. Carefully arrange the slices of marinated zucchini on individual salad plates, alternating with the avocado slices, slightly overlapping them.  Sprinkle with the pistachio nuts. Garnish with the thyme sprigs and flowers and fleur de sel.  Serve.

Wine suggestion

Favorite wine partners for avocado include a young Pinot Grigio, a crisp-style Chardonnay, and a fragrant, well-chilled Sauvignon Blanc.

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This recipe was first published in Salad as a Meal. 
All rights reserved. Please do not reproduce without permission.

Tomato Tatins

My good friend Jeffrey Bergman kindly shared this recipe with me one sunny August in Provence. We worked and worked on it (shucks had to eat it SO many times!) until we came up with this version, which we love. It is so fragrant and beautiful, and one of those did I really make these beauties?.

8 servings

Equipment

Three baking sheets; eight 1/2 cup (125 ml) ramekins; a 3 1/2-inch (8.75 cm) pastry cutter.

INGREDIENTS

Tomatoes

3 pounds (1.5 kg) small, firm, garden-fresh red heirloom tomatoes (about 15)
Fine sea salt Extra-virgin olive oil spray Pastry
A 14-ounce (400 g) sheet of my Blitz Puff Pastry recipe, well chilled, or purchased all-butter puff pastry, thawed (see Note)

Shallots

4 large shallots peeled, halved lengthwise, and cut into thin half-moons
2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon ground Espelette pepper or other mild ground chile pepper
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

caramel

1/2 cup (100 g) white, refined sugar (do not use dark, unrefined cane sugar)
4 teaspoons water
1/8 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

16 fresh basil leaves, plus more leaves for garnish
1/4 cup (25 g) freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

note

In our tests, we have preferred Dufour brand frozen puff pastry, available at most specialty supermarkets. See www.dufourpastrykitchens.com. Be sure to leave ample time for thawing frozen dough, at least 6 hours in he refrigerator.

METHOD

1.     Roast the tomatoes: Center a rack in the oven. Preheat the oven to 275°F (135°C). 

 2.     Core the tomatoes and halve them crosswise (at the equator.) Arrange the tomatoes, cut side up, side by side, on the baking sheet. Sprinkle lightly with salt. Spray lightly with oil. Place the baking sheet in the oven and bake until the tomatoes have shrunk by about one-third, 1 1/2 to 2 hours. This is an important step to condense tomato flavor and reduce moisture. (The tomatoes can be baked up to 1 day in advance, stored in an airtight container, and refrigerated.)

 3.     Prepare the pastry: With the pastry cutter, cut out 8 rounds of pastry. Arrange the rounds side by side on a baking sheet. With a fork, prick the pastry. (The pastry rounds can be prepared up to 8 hours in advance. Cover and refrigerate.)

 4.     Prepare the shallot mixture: In a small saucepan, combine the shallots, oil, and 1/2 teaspoon of salt. Stir to coat the shallots with the oil. Sweat – cook, covered, over low heat, stirring frequently, until the shallots are soft and translucent – about 5 minutes. Add the Espelette pepper and the vinegar. Increase the heat to medium high and cook until the vinegar has evaporated, but the mixture remains moist. Taste for seasoning. (The shallots can be prepared up to 1 day in advance, stored in an airtight container and refrigerated.)

 5.     Prepare the caramel: In a medium saucepan, combine the sugar, water, and lemon juice and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to medium and cook undisturbed until sugar begins to caramelize, about 1 minute.  Pay close attention as the caramel will deepen in color quickly at this stage.  Swirl the pan gently and cook until the caramel is a deep amber, about 1 minute more.  Spoon a generous tablespoon of the caramel into the ramekins and tilt the ramekins so that the caramel evenly coats the bottom. (This can be done up to 8 hours in advance. Store at room temperature.)

6.     Bake the tatins: About 30 minutes before baking the tatins, center a rack in the oven. Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C).

7.     Arrange the caramel-coated ramekins side by side on a baking sheet. Place 2 or 3 tomato halves, cut side up, into each ramekin. Press down on the tomatoes so that they fit snugly into the ramekins. Spoon the shallot mixture on top of the tomatoes. Place 2 basil leaves on top of the shallots.  Sprinkle with the cheese.

 8.     Place a round of chilled pastry on top of each ramekin and tuck the dough around the tomatoes. Place the baking sheet in the oven and bake until the pastry is puffed and golden and the tomatoes are bubbling around the edges, 25 to 35 minutes. Remove the baking sheet from the oven and transfer the ramekins to a rack to cool for at least 2 minutes.

 9.     Carefully invert each tatin onto an individual salad plate. Serve slightly warm or at room temperature, garnished with basil leaves. (The tatins can be prepared up to 8 hours in advance, stored at room temperature.)

The Secret

This dish offers a beautiful balance of sweet and acid. The shallots and vinegar, as well as the touch of caramel, are essential to creating a dish full of contrasting flavors.

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This recipe was first published in The French Kitchen Cookbook. All rights reserved. Please do not reproduce without permission.

Jerusalem Artichoke Soup

How can this gnarled and knobby vegetable offer such elegance? This soup deserves a pedestal, as the creamy alabaster liquid flecked with bits of brown, elicits looks of surprise from guests followed by sounds of happy pleasures.

8 servings

Equipment

A blender or a food processor; 8 warmed, shallow soup bowls.

INGREDIENTS

2 quarts (2 l) whole milk
2 teaspoons fine sea salt
2 pounds (1 kg) Jerusalem artichokes (sunchokes), scrubbed but not peeled
1/4 cup (30 g) salted pistachios, toasted (optional)
Best-quality pistacho oil, such as Leblanc brand, for garnish (optional)

METHOD

1.    Rinse a large saucepan with water, leaving a bit of water in the pan (this will prevent the milk from scorching and sticking to the pan.)  Pour the milk into the pan and add the salt.

2.    Trim the Jerusalem artichokes, and chop them coarsely, dropping them into the milk as you work (this will prevent the vegetable from turning brown as it is exposed to the air). When all the Jerusalem artichokes are prepared, place the pan over medium heat and cook gently until they are soft, 35 to 40  minutes. Watch carefully so the milk does not boil over. The milk may curdle, but that will not alter the texture or flavor of the final soup.

3.    Transfer the mixture, in small batches, to the blender or food processor. Do not place the plunger in the feed tube of the  food processor or in the lid of blender, or the heat will create a vacuum and the liquid will splatter. Puree until the mixture is  perfectly smooth and silken, 1 to 2 minutes.

4.    Return the soup to the saucepan and reheat gently. Taste for seasoning. Transfer it to the warmed, shallow soup bowls, garnished, if desired, with pistachios and pistachio oil and serve.

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This recipe was first published in Simply Truffles. All rights reserved. Please do not reproduce without permission.

Red Tomato Gazpacho

A cool gazpacho summer soup is the perfect example of a quick and easy emulsion, as the blender and golden olive oil work their magic to transform a handful of ingredients into a velvety chilled delight.

8 servings

Equipment

A blender, food processor or immersion blender 8 chilled, shallow soup bowls or glasses.

INGREDIENTS

2 pounds (1 kg) ripe red tomatoes, rinsed, cored, cut into chunks  
1 small cucumber (about 6 ounces; 180 g) peeled, cut into chunks
1 small mildly hot pepper such as Anaheim, stemmed, cut into chunks
1 small red onion, peeled, cut into chunks
2 plump, fresh garlic cloves, peeled, halved, green germ removed if present
2 teaspoons best-quality red wine or sherry wine vinegar
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
1/2 cup (125 ml) mild extra-virgin olive oil

METHOD

1.    In the blender, combine the tomatoes, cucumber, pepper, onion, and garlic. Blend at highest speed until well emulsified and very smooth, a full 2 minutes. With the motor running, add the vinegar and salt. Slowly drizzle in the olive oil, until the mixture is smooth, thick and emulsified.

2.    Cover and refrigerate until well chilled. Pour into chilled bowls or glasses to serve.
 
MAKE AHEAD NOTE: The soup can be prepared up to 3 days in advance and stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator. Re-blend at serving time.

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This recipe was first published in My Master Recipes. All rights reserved. Please do not reproduce without permission.

Yveline's Chilled Cucumber Soup

Yveline is our good friend and neighbor in Provence, and she is always coming up with simple local recipes that we love. This is one of her summertime creations: We sometimes add a dollop of avocado sorbet, a fine act of gilding the lily.

 8 servings

EQUIPMENT

A blender or a food processor. 

INGREDIENTS

1 large European cucumber (about 1 pound; 500 g, peeled and chopped

2 large ripe avocados, halved, pitted, peeled, and cubed

2 cups (500 ml) Homemade Chicken or Vegetable Stock (page 000)

1 cup (45 g) cilantro leaves

1 teaspoon fine sea salt   

Grated zest and juice of 1 lime, preferably organic

Avocado Sorbet, optional

METHOD

1.     In the blender or food processor combine the cucumber, half of the cubed avocado, the chicken stock, half of the cilantro, and salt, and process to blend. Taste for seasoning. Chill for at least 1 hour and up to 24 hours.
 

2.     At serving time, garnish with the remaining cilantro, the rest of the avocado, the lime juice and zest.  If using, place a scoop of avocado sorbet in the center of the bowl.

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This recipe was first published in My Master Recipes. All rights reserved. Please do not reproduce without permission.

Magic Mushroom Soup

I call this crowd-pleasing soup my magic recipe. It is so amazing that so few ingredients – and a soup made in a matter of minutes – can have so much depth of flavor. It really is a fine example of the miracles of infusion. The dried cèpe (porcini) mushroom powder packs a maximum of fragrance and flavor and takes well to many variations: pair it with paper-thin slices of raw domestic mushrooms or seared domestic or wild mushrooms showered in the bowl at serving time; prepare with dried morel powder in place of cèpes; top with thin slices of raw black truffles; or add a dollop of mushroom powder-infused whipped cream.

8 Servings

Equipment

A large jar with a lid, a 3-quart (3 l) heavy-duty saucepan with a lid, 8 warmed, shallow soup bowls.

INGREDIENTS

2 cups (500 ml) heavy cream
2 tablespoons cèpe powder (see Note)
1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
3 cups (750 ml) chicken or vegetable stock
Chopped fresh chives, for garnish
Extra virgin olive oil, or chive oil for garnish

Note

To prepare cèpe powder, coarsely chop or cut with a scissors about 2 ounces (30 g) of best-quality dried cèpe mushrooms. Working in batches, grind them to a fine powder in an electric spice mill. This should yield about 8 tablespoons   of powder. Store the powder in a small jar, tightly sealed, in a cool, dry place, for up to 6 months.

METHOD

1.     If time permits, combine the cream and mushroom powder in a jar, seal, and refrigerate for 24 hours to infuse the cream with the mushroom flavor and aroma. (Alternatively, combine the cream and mushroom powder in the heavy-duty saucepan, bring just to a simmer, cover, remove from the heat, and set aside for 30 minutes to infuse the cream.)

2.     At serving time, in the saucepan, combine the infused cream, salt, and stock and bring to a gentle simmer over medium heat. Remove from the heat and taste for seasoning.

3.     Serve in the warmed soup bowls, garnished with chives and a few drops of oil.

VARIATIONS: Add sliced raw domestic or wild mushrooms to the soup and cook for several minutes; add grilled, sliced cèpes or domestic or wild mushrooms; for a decadent flourish add truffle matchsticks at serving time.

MAKE AHEAD NOTE: The soup can be prepare up to 3 days in advance and stored in airtight containers in the refrigerator.

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This recipe was first published in My Master Recipes. All rights reserved. Please do not reproduce without permission.

Asian Chicken Balls in Broth

My love for Asian food is never-ending, and this easy, quick chicken meatball creation is a favorite. The secret here is to steam the meatballs so that they remain tender and succulent. Searing briefly afterwards adds a wonderfully caramelized crust without overcooking.

Makes 25 to 30 meatballs  

Equipment

A food processor; a bamboo steamer.

INGREDIENTS

1 pound (500 g) boneless, skinless free-range chicken breast meat
2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon Vietnamese fish sauce
3 tablespoons minced fresh ginger (or 1 tablespoon ground ginger)
1 teaspoon fine sea salt 1/2 cup (40 g) plain dry bread crumbs
1/2 cup (125 ml) minced scallions, both green and white parts
1 large egg, free-range and organic
1/4 cup minced fresh chives
1 cup loosely packed fresh cilantro leaves, plus more for garnish
1 tablespoon kaffir lime leaf powder (see page 443 of My Master Recipes; optional)
Chicken stock (page 402 of My Master Recipes), or William’s Thai Vegetable Bouillon (page 37 of My Master Recipes), warmed, for serving

METHOD

1.  Cut the chicken into 1-inch (2.5 cm) cubes. Spread the meat in a single layer on the baking sheet, cover with plastic wrap, and freeze for 1 hour. The chicken should be stiff. (Freezing will help the food processor blade cut the meat cleanly, rather than tearing or smearing it.)

2.  Place the cubes in the food processor and process for about 15 seconds, until the chicken is coarsely ground. Transfer the chicken to a large bowl, add 1 tablespoon of the sesame oil and the remaining ingredients (except the chicken stock) and use your hands to blend the mixture.

3.  To prevent the mixture from sticking, wet your hands with cold water, then shape the mixture into 1-1/2-inch (3 cm) balls, about the size of golf balls.

4.  In a medium saucepan bring 1 quart (1 l) of water to the boil over high heat.

5.  Arrange the meatballs side by side in the steamer, cover, and place on top of the saucepan. Steam until cooked through, about 5 minutes.

6.  In a skillet sear heat the remaining 1 tablespoon of sesame oil over medium-high heat and sear the meatballs for a few minutes to create a crunchy, colorful exterior. Serve in the chicken stock of vegetable stock, and garnish with fresh cilantro leaves.

VARIATIONS: Serve with a trio of Asian Dipping Sauces – such as my Quick Asian Dipping Sauce, Sweet and Spicy Dipping Sauce and Vietnamese Dipping Sauce (from My Master Recipes) – or deep-fry for 2 minutes and garnish with a mix of cilantro, basil and mint.

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This recipe was first published in My Master Recipes. All rights reserved. Please do not reproduce without permission.