Spaghetti with Pecorino + Pepper: Cacio e Pepe

Emily Buchanan June 15, 2018

Sitting on the terrace of the bustling Roman trattoria Dal Bolognese one sunny Sunday in May, I relished a version of this classic dish, pungent with freshly ground black pepper and enriched with a mixture of sheep’s milk Pecorino cheese and Parmigiano-Reggiano. We were dining with our friends George Germon and Johanne Killeen, and George noted that this is one of the hardest pastas to get right, probably because it is so basic and appears easy. The pepper flavor should be dominant, but should not overwhelm the palate. We eat pasta at least once a week, and this is one of my “Go To” preparations, since it goes together in a matter of minutes and is such a thoroughly satisfying dish.

4 servings

EQUIPMENT

A 10-quart (10 l) pasta pot fitted with a colander; 4 warmed, shallow soup bowls.

INGREDIENTS

3 tablespoons coarse, freshly ground black pepper, preferably Tellicherry
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons (30 g) salted butter
3 tablespoons coarse sea salt
1 pound (500 g) Italian spaghetti
3/4 cup (50 g) freshly grated Pecorino-Romano cheese, plus extra for serving
3/4 cup (75 g) freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, plus extra for serving

METHOD

1. Place the pepper in a large skillet over a medium heat and toast it, shaking the pan, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the oil and the butter and stir until the butter is melted. Remove from the heat.

2. In the pasta pot, bring 8 quarts (8 l) of water to a rolling boil over high heat. Add the salt and the pasta, stirring to prevent the pasta from sticking. Cook until tender but firm to the bite. Remove the pasta pot from the heat. Remove the colander and drain the pasta over the sink, shaking to remove the excess water. Reserve some of the cooking water for the sauce.

3. Return the skillet to the heat. Add about 4 tablespoons of the pasta water to the oil mixture and stir to blend. Add the pasta and toss until it is evenly coated. Add the cheeses and toss until the pasta is evenly coated. If the pasta is dry, add more pasta water. Serve immediately, with additional grated Pecorino and Parmigiano on the side.

THE SECRET

Buy the best peppercorns you can find. I favor the highly aromatic Tellicherry pepper from Malabar, off the coast of India, and love its spiciness, hint of wood, and lingering scent. The berries are left on the vines a bit longer, so they develop a deep, rich flavor. The peppercorns from The Spice House (thespicehouse.com) are fabulous and reliable. And do invest in a good pepper mill, one that will coarsely grind the peppercorns. I use a battery-powered Peugeot mill. Peugot mills are readily available in gourmet shops. (Note I have no affiliation with these brands, they are just the ones I like and chose to use in my kitchen).

Penne with Tomatoes, Rosemary, Olives, Artichokes + Capers

Emily Buchanan June 14, 2018

There are evenings when I crave pizza but don’t have the time to prepare it. That’s when I turn to this pasta dish, one that has all my favorite pizza toppings turned into a sauce, which I affectionately call Pizza Pasta. Penne is the preferred pasta here, for it’s sturdy enough to stand up to the rustic trimmings.

6 servings

EQUIPMENT

A 10-quart (10 l) pasta pot fitted with a colander; 6 warmed, shallow soup bowls.

INGREDIENTS

3 tablespoons course sea salt
1 pound (500 g) Italian penne pasta
2 cups (500 ml) tomato sauce or one 28-ounce (794 g) can diced Italian tomatoes in juice
1 tablespoon finely minced fresh rosemary
1/2 cup (60 g) best-quality brine-cured black olives, pitted and halved lengthwise
12 artichoke hearts marinated in olive oil, drained and cut into bite-size pieces
1/2 cup (60 g) capers in vinegar, drained
1 teaspoon fennel seeds
8 ounces (250 g) Italian whole-milk mozzarella, torn into bite-size pieces
4 tablespoons fresh basil leaves, torn
Hot red pepper flakes, for serving

METHOD

1. In the pasta pot, bring 8 quarts (8 l) of water to a rolling boil over high heat. Add the salt and the pasta, stirring to prevent the pasta from sticking. Cook until tender but firm to the bite.

2. Meanwhile, in a saucepan that is large enough to hold the cooked pasta, combine the tomatoes sauce or canned tomatoes, rosemary, olives, artichokes, capers and fennel seeds. Simmer while the pasta is cooking.

3. When the pasta is cooked, remove the pot from the heat. Remove the colander and drain the pasta over the sink, shaking to remove the excess water. Immediately transfer the drained pasta to the sauce in the saucepan. Toss to evenly coat the pasta. Cover and let rest for 1 to 2 minutes to allow the pasta to thoroughly absorb the sauce. Taste for seasoning. Transfer to the warmed soup bowls, and garnish with the cheese and basil. Pass the red pepper flakes.

WINE SUGGESTION

A favorite household red is the inky-purple Vacqueyras, the southern Rhône wine from Domaine des Amouriers. Their Les Genestes is a typical blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvedre, with lots of spice that marries well with this pasta dish.

Quick Whole Wheat Bread Tart Dough

Emily Buchanan March 21, 2018

Makes one 12-inch (30 cm) pizza or flatbread

Equipment

A food processor.

Ingredients

3/4 cup (120 g) whole wheat flour
3/4 cup (120 g) bread flour, plus extra if needed for dusting
1 package (2 1/4 teaspoons) quick-rising yeast
3/4 teaspoon fine sea salt
1/4 teaspoon sugar
2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil

Method

In the bowl of a food processor combine the whole wheat flour, bread flour, yeast, salt, and sugar and pulse to mix. Combine 1/2 cup (125 ml) of hot water and the olive oil in a measuring cup. With the motor running, gradually add enough of the hot liquid for the mixture to form a sticky ball. The dough should be soft. If it is too dry, add 1 to 2 tablespoons of water. If it is too sticky, add 1 to 2 tablespoons of flour. Process until the dough forms a ball. Transfer to a clean, floured surface and knead by hand for 1 minute. Cover with a cloth and let rest for at least 10 minutes before rolling. (The dough will keep, covered and refrigerated, for up to 4 days. Punch down the dough as necessary).

These recipes were originally published in Salad as a Meal.
All rights reserved. Please do not reproduce without permission.

Flammekeuchen: Alsatian Bacon + Onion Tart

Emily Buchanan March 21, 2018

It’s no secret that I love making pizza, and Flammekuechen, the Alsatian version of a thin-crust pizza made with cream, onions and bacon, is a favorite, to bake in my wood-fired oven now that winter is really here.

In this version I have lightened the recipe by replacing the traditional cream with non-fat yogurt or fromage blanc and steaming the onions instead of sweating them in fat. However, on a chilly night you might just feel like adding back the cream and sweated onions! Serve with a green salad and a class of chilled Riesling and transport yourself to Alsace!

Makes 1 12-inch tart

Equipment

A baking stone; a steamer; a wooden pizza peel; a metal pizza peel or large metal spatula (If you don’t have a baking stone and a wooden peel, simply sprinkle the polenta on a baking sheet, place the round of dough on top, assemble the tart, and bake on the baking sheet).

Ingredients

8 ounces (250 g) large white onions, peeled and cut crosswise into very thin rounds
4 ounces (125 g) thinly sliced pancetta or bacon, cut into cubes
1/2 cup (150 g) nonfat Greek-style yogurt or fromage blanc
1/8 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
Flour and polenta for dusting
1 recipe Quick Whole Wheat Bread Tart Dough, shaped into a ball
Coarse, freshly ground black pepper

Method

1. Place the baking stone on the bottom rack of the oven. Preheat the oven to 500°F (260°C)

2. Separate the onions into rings. You should have about 4 cups (1 liter) loosely packed onions.

3. Bring 1 quart (1 liter) of water to a simmer in the bottom of a steamer. Place the onions on the steaming rack. Place the rack over simmering water, cover, and steam until the onions are al dente 5 to 6 minutes. Remove the basket from the steamer to drain the onions. (This can be done 2 to 3 hours before serving.

4. In a large dry skillet, brown the pancetta over moderate heat until crisp and golden, 3 to 4 minutes. With a slotted spoon, transfer the pancetta to several layers of paper towels to absorb the fat. Blot the top of the pancetta with several layers of paper towel to absorb any additional fat.5. In a medium bowl combine the yogurt, nutmeg, onions, and half of the pancetta. Stir to blend.

6. On a generously floured work surface, roll the dough into a 12- inch (30 cm) round.

7. Sprinkle the wooden pizza peel with polenta and place the round of dough on the peel. Working quickly to keep the dough from sticking, assemble the tart: Spread the yogurt mixture evenly over the dough. Sprinkle with the remaining pancetta.

8. Slide the dough off the peel and onto the baking stone. Bake until the dough is crisp and golden, and the top is bubbly, about 10 minutes.

9. With the metal pizza peel or large spatula, remove the tart from the baking stone. Sprinkle generously with pepper. Transfer to a cutting board and cut into 8 wedges. Serve immediately.

Wine suggestion

A young, fresh dry Alsatian Riesling is in order here: Try one from the reputable firms of Ostertag or Zind-Humbrecht – crisp, dry, smoky wines with a saline touch of chalky minerality, an even match for the creamy onion and pancetta mixture offset with a hit of black pepper.

This recipe were originally published in Salad as a Meal.
All rights reserved. Please do not reproduce without permission.

Instant No-Knead Pizza + Bread Dough

Emily Buchanan March 21, 2018

This fool-proof, totally versatile no-knead dough is a staple in my kitchen. It can be made a few minutes ahead or days before. Made quickly in the food processor with instant yeast, it requires no kneading and is ready to use immediately for a rustic family pizza (page 283 of My Master Recipes), or with just a quick rise, for pinwheel loaves (page 285 of My Master Recipes) and focaccia (page 289 of My Master Recipes), fresh from your own oven!

Makes two 13-inch (33 cm) pizzas, 2 Pinwheel Loaves, or 1 Focaccia

Equipment

A measuring cup with a pouring spout; a food processor.

Ingredients

1 cup (250 ml) lukewarm water
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
3 cups (420 g) unbleached, all-purpose flour
1 package (about 2 teaspoons) instant yeast
2 1/4 teaspoons fine sea salt

Method

1. In a cup with a pouring spout, combine the water and the oil.

2. In the food processor, combine the flour, yeast, and salt. Pulse to blend. Add the liquid slowly through the feed tube, pulsing just before the dough forms a ball, 15 to 20 seconds. You may not need all the liquid. (If the dough is too wet, add a bit more flour. If it is too dry, add a bit more liquid).

3. Transfer the dough to a clean work surface and form into a ball. The dough should be soft. Divide the dough into 2 equal balls. The dough can be used immediately, or can be stored in a airtight container refrigerated, for up to 5 days. Punch down the dough as necessary.

This recipe was first published in My Master Recipes.
All rights reserved. Please do not reproduce without permission.

Grilled Polenta with Tomato + Onion Sauce

Emily Buchanan March 20, 2018

This light, colorful vegetarian weeknight dinner is a favorite, inspired by my annual visits to my “boot camp” Rancho la Puerta in Tecate, Mexico. This soothing, comfort-food dinner knows few rivals, particularly in cold weather.

4 servings

Equipment

A 1-quart (1 l) gratin dish, 4 warmed dinner plates.

Ingredients

3 cups (750 ml) 1 % milk
1/2 cup (125 ml) light cream or half-and-half
1 1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
3/4 cup (135 g) instant polenta
1/2 cup (90 g) freshly grated Swiss Gruyère cheese, plus extra for garnish
1 large onion, peeled, halved lengthwise, and cut into thin half-rounds
1/4 cup (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
One 28-ounce (794 g) can peeled Italian plum tomatoes in juice
2 fresh or dried bay leaves
Fresh, flat-leafed parsley leaves, for garnish

Method

1. In a large saucepan, bring the milk, cream, 1 teaspoon of the sea salt, and the nutmeg to a boil over medium heat. (Watch carefully, for milk will boil over quickly.) Add the polenta in a steady stream and, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, cook until the mixture begins to thicken, about 3 minutes.

2. Remove from the heat. Add half of the cheese, stirring to blend thoroughly. The polenta should be very creamy and pourable. Pour it into the gratin dish. Even out the top with a spatula. Sprinkle with the remaining cheese. Let sit at room temperature for about 30 minutes to firm up. (Or store, covered and refrigerated, for up to 3 days.)

3. Prepare the tomato garnish: In a large skillet, combine the onion, 2 tablespoons of the olive oil, and the remaining 1/2 teaspoon sea salt and sweat – cook, covered over low heat until soft and translucent – about 5 minutes. With a large pair of scissors, cut the tomatoes in the can into small pieces. Add the bay leaves and tomatoes and their juices and cook, covered, over low heat for about 15 minutes. Taste for seasoning.

4. At serving time, heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large skillet until hot but not smoking. Cut the polenta into 8 even squares. Sear each square on both sides until golden, about 2 minutes per side. Transfer the squares to the warmed plates, stacking the second slice at an angle over the first. Spoon the sauce all over. Garnish with parsley and cheese.

WINE SUGGESTION

An inexpensive everyday dish suggests an equally fine but gently priced wine. A favorite is Michel and Stephane Ogier’s La Rosine Syrah, a deep purple vin de pays from the hillsides north of the old Roman town of Vienne.