We love efficiency in the kitchen, and at such a busy time of year, versatile recipes that can become several different meals are high on the priority list. So this week we’re offering a sauteed mushroom recipe that can be served as a woodsy, satisfying side dish, transformed into a fragrant pasta sauce, or combined with ricotta and pecorino cheese to make a vegetarian-perfect pâté – a most impressive trompe-l’oeil appetizer to be eaten with homemade crackers, as a side dish, or even as a main dish served with a green salad.

Nourish note: Never toss the liquid used to plump dried mushrooms. It can always be used to season soups and sauces or as a base for a rich umami broth. Just be certain to thoroughly rinse the mushrooms before and after soaking, and strain the soaking liquid through cheesecloth, for dried mushrooms almost always contain a bit of sand or dirt.

Sautéed Mushrooms and Mushroom Pâté  

8 servings | Equipment: A large, deep, heavy duty skillet with a lid; a food processor; several ramekins  

Ingredients

For the sauteed mushrooms

2 cups (2 ounces; 60 g) dried cêpe mushroom pieces
3 tablespoons toasted sesame oil or extra-virgin olive oil  
3 shallots, cut into thin rings
4 cloves garlic, minced
Fine sea salt
8 ounces (250 g) fresh shiitake mushrooms, rinsed, trimmed, coarsely chopped
Freshly ground black pepper, such as Timut  
1 cup (125 ml) heavy cream (optional)

For the pâté

8 ounces sheep’s milk ricotta cheese
3 tablespoons pecorino pepato cheese  

For garnish

A  generous shower of fresh thyme
A spice mix of equal parts ground ginger, cinnamon, and nutmeg
A generous coating of an expressive black pepper such as coarsely ground Voatsiperifery

Method

1.     Place the dried mushrooms in a sieve and rinse thoroughly with hottest possible tap water. With the mushrooms still in the sieve, place the sieve in a cup with a pouring spout and fill the cup with hot water. Set aside to soften, about 10 minutes.

2.     In a large skillet, combine the oil, shallots, garlic, and salt and sweat – cook, covered, over moderate heat – until soft. Do not let the shallots or garlic brown. Add the shiitake mushrooms and cook until soft, about 5 minutes.

3.     Once the dried mushrooms have softened, rinse them one more time in the sieve. Add the mushrooms to the skillet, making sure to save the soaking liquid. Continue cooking the two mushrooms in the skillet until soft.

4.     For the mushroom soaking liquid: Place a piece of cheesecloth over the sieve and carefully filter the mushroom draining liquid into another vessel. Set aside and save as a broth. (If preparing the sauteed mushroom mixture as a vegetable side dish stop here.)

5.     FOR SAUTEED MUSHROOM SAUCE: With the mushrooms still in the skillet, add enough of the strained mushroom soaking liquid to make a generous sauce. If desired, add additional cream to taste. Season generously with pepper. Taste for seasoning.

6.     FOR THE MUSHROOM PATE: Transfer the mushrooms in the skillet to the food processor. Add the ricotta cheese, Pecorino pepato and process to blend. Taste for seasoning. Transfer the pâté to ramekins and garnish with any of the suggested garnishes.

This is a Nourish the Planet recipe, part of a collaborative series by Patricia Wells and Emily Buchanan.
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