When will Paris get a truly wonderful and special Thai restaurant?

Not yet. The much touted Le Livingstone - with its dark colonial decor, leopard-skin banquettes, hunting trophies and stuffed animal heads - nets a big zero in the flavor category. A nonclassic beef and lemon-grass salad featured about half a head of lettuce, almost no dressing, a few strips of meat and nary a hint of lemon grass.

Equally watered down and wimpy was the green curry chicken, swimming in a thoroughly flavorless broth.

The music is nice, prices reasonable, service efficient and friendly, but I do not think I'll be back.

Le Livingstone
106 Rue Saint Honore
Paris 75001.
Tel: 01-53-40-80-50
fax: 01-53-40-80-51.

Closed Saturday lunch and Sunday. About 150 francs ($22) a person, including service but not beverages. All major credit cards.