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Here is a newly updated Restaurant Favorites list
for 2003. For old standbys, both casual and special
occasion, consult the 2002 list. Note that in all cases,
prices include service but not wine. All restaurants
accept credit cards.
- FLORA
36, avenue George V
Paris 8
Tel: 01 40 70 10 49
Closed Saturday lunch and Sunday. 32 € lunch menu. A la carte,
35 to 60 €.
Flora Mikula, former chef/owner of the popular 7th
arrondissement Provencal restaurant, Les Olivades,
moved on to new quarters with a new menu and a new,
more contemporary style in the summer of 2002. Flora’s
new spot is clean, classy, and on the mark. The menu
cleverly covers all bases, using with care and creativity
the ingredients of the season, be they artichokes,
red fruits, sorrel, eggplant, summer truffles or woodsy
girolles mushrooms. I most loved the super-fresh langoustines,
quickly pan-fried, and served with artichokes and a
colorful, full-flavored lobster coral vinaigrette,
as well as the meaty roast turbot with lemon confit.
From the wine list, a good choice is Marcel Richaud’s
Cairanne – priced at 21 € -- a fine, Grenache-based
red ready for drinking now.
- LE TIMBRE
3, rue Sainte-Beuve
Paris 6
Tel: 01 45 49 10 40
Closed Saturday lunch and Sunday. About 32 €.
A timbre is a postage stamp, and this is the size
of the elbow-to-elbow bistro where Englishman Christopher
Wright holds court. The place crawls with Anglophones
but is worth a visit for the clean, clear bistro fare:
On my last visit I loved the unusual beet soup laced
with curry; the paper-thin slices of Spanish ham – jabugo – with
a salad of lentils; fine roast squab served with rich
and buttery cabbage; pan-fried Auvergnat sausages served
with a parsnip puree and a nice, creamy sauce. Prices – goody
for us – are the size of a postage stamp, too.
- LE REPAIRE DE CARTOUCHE
8, boulevard des Filles de Calvaire and 99, rue Amelot
Paris 11
Tel: 01 47 00 25 86
Fax: 01 43 38 85 91
Closed Sunday and Monday. About 45 €.
Chef Rodolphe Paquin has close to perfect bistro pitch,
turning out such favorites as seared wild boar steak
(sanglier) with red beets in vinegar ; a warm oyster
soup studded with cubes of soft, succulent calf’s
head (tete de veau); or a perfectly spiced terrine
of blood sausage (boudin noir) with a welcoming green
salad. We loved the ever-dependable Minervois red,
this from Le Bois des Merveilles.
- AUX LYONNAIS
32, rue Saint Marc
Paris 2
Tel: 01 42 9 65 04
Fax: 01 42 97 42 95
Closed all day Sunday and Monday lunch.
28 € menu. A la carte, 40 €.
Alain Ducasse has taken over this classic 1890's bistro
near the French stock exchange, or Bourse, transforming
it into the sort of place we love to go today, a classic
Lyonnais style bistro with zinc bar, bright floral
tiles and colorful deep red façade. It could
serve as a museum piece or film set, and the food is
convincing and gently re-tooled. I adored the remake
of the classic sabodet, a strong and earthy sausage
made with pig’s head and skin, one that warms
the insides of a cold winter’s day. Rather than
plopping the sausage in a pool of rich sauce, the venerable
sausage is poached gently in broth, covered with a
layer of potatoes, and perfumed with a lightened sauce
gribiche, or mayonnaise, laced with capers, cornichons,
and herbs. Equally appealing is the classic roast chicken,
garnished with tomatoes, mushrooms and onions, and
deglazed with the traditional touch of red wine vinegar.
The wine list is pricey, but stick with the Fleurie,
Brouilly, Chiroubles or Moulin-a-Vent, all at around
30 €.
- AZABU
3, rue André Mazet
Paris 6
Tel: 01 46 33 72 05
Closed Sunday lunch and Monday. About 40 €.
Miam is all I can say. I adore Japanese food and this
new teppanyaki restaurant features food cooked directly
on a flat metal grill: vegetables, fish, meat, even
foie gras. I loved the moist teppanyaki chicken as
well as raw offerings that included a carpaccio of
beef and a platter of raw oysters served with a pungent
ponzu sauce, a flavorful blend of rice vinegar, lemon
juice, soy sauce and kombu, or kelp. The lovely selection
of sake is very tempting.
- TM CAFÉ
54, Boulevard de La Tour Maubourg
Paris 7
Tel: 01 47 05 89 86
Fax: 01 45 56 03 84
Closed Sunday and Monday. About 40 €.
Paul Minchelli has left his vast Left Bank fish restaurant,
and it’s now in the hands of the former staff.
Prices are lower, the menu is reduced, but one can
still find some fine fish and shellfish here. On a
recent visit we loved the tartare of salmon and sea
bass (saumon et bar); the simple steamed sea bass and
the wonderfully spicy salt and pepper shrimp. The encornets
ail piment (fried squid with garlic and red pepper)
were dull and soggy. The wine list needs help, though
the 26 € Pouilly Fumé was very drinkable.
- CAFÉ RUC
159, rue Saint Honoré
Paris 1
Tel: 01 42 60 97 54
Open daily. About 20€.
Put this charming spot – halfway between café and
restaurant – on your list while visiting the
Louvre. It’s a classy place, with nice space
indoors and on the terrace. Excellent oysters, fine
green salad with lots of varied greens, and a decent
potages legumes --- vegetable soup – for when
you’re in the mood.
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