Caché: A hidden gem worth the detour

November 22, 2022 Emily Buchanan

Hidden away from everyday Paris, the restaurant Caché can only be found by a strange and surprising walk through the Villa Riberolle in the 20th. Not far from the Père Lachaise cemetery and the tombs of Edith Piaf and Gertrude Stein, this sure is a place for Paris history. The “villa” – a block-long, mysterious alley – is part ruin part lively center of ateliers and restaurants. According to our waiter, the large, welcoming, brick-walled space with looming skylights was once a newspaper printing factory but I have not been able to officially confirm this.

At any rate, this all-fish restaurant, with French chef Sylvain Roucayrol at the helm, is certainly worth the detour. Somewhat like a visit to Brooklyn in Paris, the entire experience feels like an adventure. Expect a warm welcome, a menu varied enough to please every fish lover, service as attentive as can be, with a sommelier who honestly takes a personal interest in your tastes.

Start with the fatty, full-flavored toro tuna annointed with citrusy ponzu, crunchy kombu and a touch of caviar (photo). We also loved the scallop roasted in its shell and seasoned with zesty bergamot and the Korean chili gochugaru.

When you go, reserve a table of at least four, so you can share the selection of whole-roasted fish. We chose the North Atlantic turbot, cooked to perfection and served on a giant white platter, perfectly fresh and boned, ready to devour.

The surprise of the evening was a fabulous tempura of the seldom-seen Italian puntarella, a chicory topped with a mild and refreshing anchovy sauce. Desserts are classic and delicious: a warm chocolate mousse served with a fève de tonka (tonka bean) ice cream, and a giant lemon meringue pie with a sidebar of lemon sorbet.

I could go on and on about the wines: we had sips of seven different selections, all perfectly paired with the food, ranging from a character-filled Riberach from the Catalan region, to an Australian white to a Clos Béru Chablis.